How to sharpen a corner chisel?
![](https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/6815503b58549e1882bc8135c72845e6?s=52&d=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.finewoodworking.com%2Fapp%2Favatars%2F200x200%2Fd.png&r=g)
I just purchased a Sorby 3/8″ Corner Chisel and was wondering how to sharpen it. Due to it’s shape (see pictures below), the Scary Sharp method would be difficult to do (with the rig, it might be doable).
I asked when I purchased the chisel, but the sales staff didn’t know how best to sharper the corner chisel. I googled for the information, I browsed through the sorby web site (they say there is some sharping information in their catalog, so I requested that, and I wrote to the sales department there, but they are on vacation until Jan 3, 2005).
After some more goggling, I decided to ask for help. So, can anyone point me in the proper direction?
Thanks,
David Genrich
[email protected]
Replies
I'd just glue pieces of sandpaper of the various grits to a small sticks of wood. Perhaps you could give the one edge of the stick a slight back cut so you're sure the sandpaper will reach all the way into the corner.
I do something similar to sharpen my molding planes, although they are mostly rounded shapes.
Rob Millard
Others may have more experienced answers butI would treat it much like a veining carving tool. Consider that you have 3 edges (or tools) that you are sharpening. 1) sharpen 1 long edge, 2) sharpen the other long edge, 3) clean up the edge where the 2 long edges meet. Step 3 should, obviously, not round the corner but just clean up the burring surfaces.
Steve
David... I'm in the same boat; need to figure this one out for myself...
Near as I can figure, I need to flatten / polish both backs on the flat of the stone before honing both bevels. Only way I can think of to get them both done at the same time is to hone across the corner of the stone i.e. rotate the stone 45 deg off the horrizontal, let the corner of the stone guide the track of the honing guide, using the guide to set the honing angle...
If anyone can figure a better way.... pipe up....
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
David
RMillard's suggestion works well. I took an old lignum vitae woody plane sole that had the sides blown out, and cut it into strips, putting a 45 degree bevel on one side. Stick your sandpaper on it, and start rubbin'. Rubbin's racin', son. Works just fine. Slipstones will do the trick too. I use them on some of my strange carving profiles as well. I have a tormek, but the setup with the special jig takes too much time. By the time I've got it all set up with the right setting and numbers, I'm finished with my little homemade sticks of sandpaper.
JC
Hi davidgenrich,
Have you considered using a slip! A slip is a sharpening stone that is used for sharpening blades that have a contour to them. You could checkout:http://www.japanwoodworker.com Just click "woodworking tools", then select "shapening tools", then select "Slips". The slips have different shapes and sizes, as well as grits.
Those daring young men in their flying machines!
Hey;
I just use a file on mine. Unlike most chisel these are a little softer so a file works fine.
Regards,
Jim
David,
I'd probably bring it back...too little value for all the trouble. However, sharpening these kinda angles, I've got a stack of popcicle sticks that come in real handy to glue sandpaper too. I have been eyeing the DMT line of Dia-sharp sticks for various sharpening tasks... http://www.dmtsharp.com
CMR thank you for the correction, when I said like a veinging gouge i meant that you traet it as 3 separate cutting surfaces, not that you remove metal from the outside, although my initial message could have been understood to mean that. Thank you for the clarification.
Dave,
Even an expert like Leonard Lee, in his book, "The Complete Guide to Sharpening," calls these, "the chisels from hell," making sharpening V tools for carving "seem like child's play."
He recommends a file for sharpening, because the tool is generally softer than other chisels - Rc 54-58 ("For reasons known only to corner-chisel manufacturers.") You should make the file a safe file by grinding off the edge teeth of a 6 or 8 inch mill file. If the tool is too hard, use a diamond file.
A 30 degree bevel is usual, but you may need 35 degrees for hardwood.
"Once the inside of the chisel is filed, it should be honed with a file-shaped hone, as fine as can be found." Of course, both faces must be lapped (polished).
The 2 cutting edges must be kept at 90 degrees to the spine and the edges must not be swept back which would let the heel lead the cutting action. Try not to get a hook in the corner.
There's more advice, but it is discouraging.
I've never used one, but from the description of the problems, the tool sounds like more trouble than it's worth.
Rich
I would use a surface grinder if I had a lot to do.
For one a good hand stone will work.
Dave, I use two diamond coated metal sharpeners that are credit card sized
FINE and VERY FINE grit. I carry them in my wallet (in their little pouches.)
Can't beat them to sharpen my and my friends' kitchen knives / router bits and those tiny drill bits
I bought them in Woodcraft at abour $9.00 ea
Have had and used them for 7 years. Micro bevelling plane irons and chisels too.
Steinmetz
You cary diamond coated sharpening cards in your wallet? Must have been a boyscout. I used to cary something in my wallet so that I would always be prepared ... but those were different days ;)
Yeah Jimbo, and you carried your Lucky Strikes wrapped up in your tee shirt sleeve too. Probably sported a crew cut or, a D A haircut to boot. Steinmetz.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled