Replies

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Oct 08, 2006 05:07am | #1

   Hi Denny,

   They're fiddly little buggers that are best sharpened freehand on the side of the stone.

   Cheers,

   eddie

2. 
   jazzdogg | Oct 08, 2006 08:53pm | #2

    I usually prefer to sharpen mine by clamping them in a vise and moving the file, stone, or diamond paddle over the iron, but that's probably because they're small and hard to hold firmly and comfortably in my increasingly arthritic fingers.

    

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Oct 09, 2006 02:10pm | #4

   I love this little gem of a plane. I use it all the time for half-blind dovetails and mortising hinges, etc. I sharpen my blade with a diamond slip from DMT. Takes only seconds.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   jazzdogg | Oct 09, 2006 06:15pm | #5

   Aren't they great, Mike! I initially got mine when making my first spokeshave, and have used it for several things since then.

   The only significant sharpening challenges were when I first got it and had to repair a damaged edge; once I corrected the geometry, honing hasn't been hard at all.

   Have you made a spare blade from a hex key/allen wrench? I plan to do that next so I'll have spear-point and skew blades.

    -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Oct 09, 2006 06:54pm | #6

   Yep. This little tool is indispensable in my shop. Mine came with the blade sole not perpendicular to the post, so it had to be flattened. I've never considered making a new blade, but I can see how a pointed or skewed blade would be nice for getting into corners. I bought mine new, but I gather from the OP that they're no longer made by Stanley. (Guess I'll have to take better care of mine!) I wouldn't dream of trying to set hinges or strike plates without it, both in furniture building and finish carpentry. I've used it for inlay work and, as per my previous post, it's wonderful for making the bottoms of half-blind dovetails straight and even. I rely on it so much, I've often thought about picking up it's big brother -- a full-size router plane (AKA "old woman's tooth").

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   jazzdogg | Oct 10, 2006 04:11am | #7

   "I rely on it so much, I've often thought about picking up it's big brother -- a full-size router plane (AKA "old woman's tooth")."

    

   Hi Mike,

   I, too, have thought about a full-size router plane - perhaps one from St. James Bay or Lee Valley/Veritas would fit the bill.

   However, there are other tools that are a little higher on the priority list right now, and there are always the impulse buys prompted by Patrick Leach, P.A.S.T. swapmeets, and such...

   If there isn't a twelve-step program for us sawdust junkies there oughta be!

    

    -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

2. 
   Steve Swantee | Oct 10, 2006 06:22pm | #8

   Hi Mike

      When I bought my 271 several years ago it was like yours with the bottom of the cutter not perpendicular to the post ( it was out at least 5 degrees ). Also, one side of the cutter was cutting a lot deeper than the other side.  Like you, I had intended to use it to set hinges and strike plates, etc.  It would work, but very poorly, no matter how sharp I got it. I never got up the courage to try and correct it ... I was scared I would make a mess of it. After reading your post  I went out to the shop, and after a couple of minutes of careful grinding I had corrected both problems. Wow, what a difference! This little gem is going to get a LOT more use now, it works really great. Thanks for the inspiration.

   Steve    

2. 
   9619 | Oct 11, 2006 03:17pm | #9

   Jazzdogg,
   I bought a Stanley 71 router plane a few months ago. It came only with the 1/2 inch blade and the pointed blade. The 1/4" is missing. I tried it out with the 1/2" blade and found the left side of the blade was lower than the right, so I took it to my 1" belt sander and squared that up. Then I honed it. However, it didn't take much to notice that if you sit the 1/2" blade down, its post is not straight up. I checked and the angle is 99 degrees. I did some checking but couldn't find anything that said that it should be 90 degrees, so I just left it that way. I have used it to mortise hinges, and find that it doesn't give a smooth cut. Is the foot supposed to be perpendicular to the post? If I tried to grind it perpendicular all the way across, there wouldn't be much left!!! What is your recommendation?I just checked the pointed blade, which is removable from its post. It is off by a few degrees. Would it be better to grind the post or the blade so the the bottom of the blade is at a 90 degree angle to the post? Thanks,
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

1. 
   mbholden | Oct 11, 2006 09:41pm | #10

   9619,

   You need to sharpen the blade to compensate for the angle the post is held at. Most Stanleys are off a bit.

   If you notice, your 71 (talking about the 71 here, NOT the 271) has two nibs at the back. Insert your blade and lower it until just the front edge of the blade contacts a flat surface along with the two nibs. The plane and blade are now a tripod. Do not set it so the entire base of the blade contacts, just the tip. Now, if you are using the "scary sharp" method of sharpening you are ready to sharpen the blade till it is sharpened just past full contact on the front of the blade. It will look all kattywampus from above, but that edge is now parallel (or close enough, for you purists) to the base of the router.

   If you are not using the "scary sharp" method, you will have make some kind of support level with the top of your stone, abrasive, whatever.

   Remember to keep the nibs off the abrasive!

   The 271 is small enough that grinding the base perpendicular to the post hole is feasible,  so that is the way to go there.

   I find router planes extremely useful, perhaps even more useful than smoothers.

   My opinion only, I dont want to start a war, YMMV, use at own risk, do not operate heavy machinery under the influence, not my fault, I wasn't even there! (grin)

2. 
   9619 | Oct 11, 2006 11:46pm | #12

   mbholden,
   I really appreciate your advice on sharpening my Stanley 71 router plane. I am not exactly sure what you mean by the two "nibs". I am looking at the plane, and it seems that you are talking about the two pieces that stick out from the back of the plane (closest to the person doing the planing). They are flat and and each is about an inch wide. That makes sense because the sharp part of the blade is at the front of the plane, and the tip of the blade together with the two "nibs" give you a tripod. I just checked the 1/2 inch blade and it is very close to parallel to the base of the plane. I will use the Scary Sharp method and, working as you suggested, make it perfectly parallel.Now a question about my second blade for the router plane. It is the one which comes to a point in the front. Do I use the same system for that one? It has a blade which comes off with a screw. When I sharpened it, I took the little flat pointed blade off of its post, and sharpened it. Of course, the front of the blade is a point rather than a line. Any advice would be appreciated.Thank you very much.
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

3. 
   mbholden | Oct 12, 2006 11:18pm | #13

   9619,

   Yes, it is the two flats on one side of the handles, on the side with the tool post.

   I dont use the pointed blade, so I cant be positive, but I would expect it to sharpen the same, although if extremely off, you may have to re grind the the upper bevels.

   Good news is, once you have developed the parallel edge, it will be quite some time before you wear it off.

   If I understand the wording of your question though, you use the plane with the blade pointing away from you. Yes? I feel like I have more control, and was taught to use it, by having the blade point toward me. It is almost a slicing motion, holding one knob firm and arcing and (slight) slicing with the other, and then alternate. Take small bites, and clear the chips away often with your fingers. Dont let a large chip start to form, as it generally causes a divot. Remember this is for fine finishing, not hogging.

   To make a groove or dado, start by sawing the sides, using a bench chisel to hog down the line from both sides. Finish with the router plane.

   I generally start with a dado stack and then routerplane (grin).

   BTW, the best use is for trimming tenons. Think about it - we get all excited and exacting about making sure the wood is square and flat, we make sure that the method we use to cut the tenons is square. We leave the tenons slightly full so we can finesse the fit, *and then freehand them with a shoulder plane* - does that make sense? Not to me. I agree it works, but why spend all that time making the wood square and then hack at it. Worse, people then take their shoulder plane and put it on this hacked surface and "trim the shoulders square" - how do they expect that to happen? Shoulder planes are for shoulders, else they would be called tenon planes. (soapbox off - sorry!)

   Any thing else, just ask

   Mike (my opinions are my own, these are the things I do, take them for what they may be worth. )

4. 
   9619 | Oct 12, 2006 11:27pm | #14

   Mike,
   Thank you very much. I understand and agree.I do use the 71 for trimming tenons, and for installing hinges. I don't own a shoulder plane.
   Thanks,
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

3. 
   bugbear | Oct 09, 2006 11:42am | #3

   This will do a perfect job:

   http://www.geocities.com/plybench/tour.html#sharpening_jig

   BugBear

4. 
   philip | Oct 11, 2006 10:39pm | #11

   You can do them freehand as mentioned over the edge of the stone.
   But I prefer to use a ten inch disc on which I have glued some 1200 silicon carbide paper, driven by my wood lathe head stock- mechanised scary sharp.
   As an aside I have several of these discs with various grades of paper, and my main use is for the sharpening of twist drill bits. I prefer this to a grind stone because things happen slowly, there is a better finish and it is easier to see what is happening.

   Philip Marcou