Replies

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jun 28, 2002 01:39am | #1

   Apply the NGR in light coats with a spray gun. Just wet enough to color the surface but not wet enough to pool and soak in (causing the blotching).

   If this is not an option, switch to a thick gel stain like Wood Kote or Bartley to do the coloring.

   Another alternative is to seal the wood with the shellac and add the NGR to some shellac and apply it over the sealed wood (toner).

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   john88141 | Jun 28, 2002 04:03am | #2

       Paul     I haved used cherry for over 50 years and never used stain becaues the natural color cannot be improved.,/    If you could see a 2 or 3 year old  piece you would understand. iIt starts out way to ltght in color but it begins to darken in ordinary room lighing.  Try a very, very light coat of natuarl Danish oil, 3coats of Deft sand off dust with 220 grit bring too a soft scheen with 400 steel wool . D o this on a sample board store in normal light and watch it for a year or so as it darkens...   If we have anyone eles wanting to comment lrt tthem respond and also tell there experience with an oil only on cherry finish Some ago an artical in Finewoodworking  rec0mmended several coats of linseed oil rubbed wekll and waxed ,this was for cherry.  I saw a 20 year old cerry corner cupord that was finished  with ,  it was ruined,   Time and oil turned it so dark that thegrain was covered over.   I have 40 year old cherry tables finished with spar varnish only. the color beautiful  more natural then stained department store cherry.    jONH

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jun 29, 2002 08:13pm | #9

   John; Many people like the natural color of cherry just as you do. But there are also many people that like to change the color to their own taste - it's a personal preference. I don't like to think of it as "right" or "wrong", just taste. The thing is, when customer's want cherry a certain color, it's important to know how to do it, and do it in a way that looks good. I would never tell a customer that they can't have the wood finished to their liking - I wouldn't have much business after a short time. If you do a search at google.com for cherry furniture or cabinets, you will find that many companies offer cherry finished in a wide variety of colors. What sells is what counts.

   I agree that flooding cherry with oil, especially linseed oil, is a not the best choice - not even a good choice in my opinion. The oil will highlight the blotchiness of the wood and linseed oil darkens a lot over the years. Spar varnish, which contains phenolic resins, will also darken considerably over the years and some people may not like the effect.

   No one can ever say you're wrong in choosing to leave cherry "natural." As you point out, the cherry will develop a beautiful color over time. The photo below is of two cherry boards. The one on the left is about 100 years old and the one on the right is "new." The lower half of the board on the right has been exposed to the sun to begin the "aging" process.

   View Image

   The aged cherry board is certainly beautiful! I never mind when someone wants a "natural" finish - for me, it means less work.Paul

   F'burg, VA

2. 
   HeavyDuty | Jun 28, 2002 04:41am | #3

   The only experience I had with cherry was with a bedroom set. I used Minwax cherry stain. As Paul said it is the pooling and soaking that creates the blotches so I applied the stain with a soft cloth moistened with the stain, just moistened not wet. Allied it quickly and evenly then immediately wiped with a dry cloth. If you want a darker color, do the same more than once but resist the temptation of getting the stain all on to achieve what you want. One very good point that Jack brought up, cherry darkens with time so I wouldn't want to apply too dark a stain coat to start with. Watch the end grain, you should seal it before applying the stain or as paul suggested, use the stain as a toner.

   Tom 

1. 
   wamara | Jun 28, 2002 04:56am | #4

   Have had good luck staining cherry and very curly cherry with analine dye to mimic color of old red mahogany. Go light with the application or you will have the blotching that you write of. It will also significantly darken with age. I agree with one response that nothing much improves on natural cherry as it darkens over time, but if you are looking for something else it can be done without the blotching if applied with a good deal of patience.

2. 
   JohnKrist | Jun 28, 2002 05:07am | #5

   I just finished up a table and two benches of cherry with this schedule:

   -80/150/220/scraper (most of stock was highly figured so planing was not much of an option, though when it was it was the best surface-low angle block plane with really sharp iron;

   Work pieces set out in bright sun for 4 hrs darkens and evens tones;

   Polymerized tung oil 50/50 with MS brushed on, then wiped off when tacky.

   Second coat of PTO wet sanded w/PTO 50/50 until 600 grit paper started to grab, then wiped off. Really nice patina.

   After two days, two coats of 2# super blond shellac. Really brought out depth of grain; each coat wet sanded w/600 and water;

   Top coat of Fuhr 3200 Alkyd Urethane; humidity a problem, but brought work inside in lower temp and humidity, as well as thinning got rid of bubbles and streaking.

   End result a deep antique look without the plastic feel. I would never stain cherry without first putting it in the sun for a while and checking the color.

   JK

3. 
   GregB126 | Jun 28, 2002 09:50pm | #6

   Staining cherry will take a beautifully made piece and make it look amatuerish.  At least that is what happened to me....  The pigment will lodge in the grain where the pore size is greater and not, where finer.  Great, if you are looking for that dirty zebra look.  Gel stains will help, as they are far more controllable, but I don't think that is the answer.  Jeff Jewitt wrote an article in FWW called something like, "A blotch free finish on cherry".  It was a few years ago.  It started of with a personal anecdote about the sad transformation of an intended gift to his inlaws to a piece of "paint grade" furniture, and a constant reminder....  I recall the bottom line being the application of a sealing coat of something, followed by color, if you want.  Options ranged from glue sizing to shellac.  I like shellac and if any color is needed, glaze it with some of Jeff's transtint dye eye-droppered into some shellac.  If you want, write a quick question to Jeff at his finishing forum.  He is a really nice guy and will get back to you withing a day.  No kidding.  I wish I'd done this before ruining my son's desk...

   Here it is: http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/ 

   Cheers,

   Greg

1. 
   dperfe | Jun 29, 2002 05:59pm | #7

   I have some some cherry shelving that was put together 7 years ago.  The only thing on it is a clear oil coat (at the time, I knew nothing about stain & finish, and it seemed like the thing to do whether right or wrong).  Anyway, it has since gotten pretty dark.  My question is however, in future projects I would like to have a little more brown to the color, just a bit of a brown tint.  Any suggestions?

   Thanks,

   David P.

4. 
   Danford_C_ | Jun 29, 2002 06:14pm | #8

   LZINSER,

   FWIW, I posted a little primer over a year ago on what I've found to work when staining Cherry; in 40 years I've never experienced "blotching".  Here's the link:  http://forums.taunton.com/n/find/findRedir.asp?webtag=tp-knots&mg=D734F3B0-99A8-4B83-80A2-691FD768D3CB

   Hope it helps.

   Dano

   "Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright