I’m working on a couple of coffee tables, both of which have a shelf at the bottom (3/4″ thick) that runs into all four legs. I’m having trouble deciding how to join the shelf with the legs. My first thought was to notch the legs and insert the uncut shelf. I’m not sure this is the best idea though. My second thought was to M & T or biscuit the notched shelf, but the notches would make that impossible. I’m now down to notching the shelf and using dowels.
I’ve seen many a table with this design, so there has to be an easier way. What am I missing?
Replies
Looks kind of like it might be just floating.
You could cut a notch in the shelf (about 1"x1") 1" from the end on all four corners, then cut a matching mortice in the legs what match the tenon formed by the notch. Look up 'haunched tenon' and there will be pictures of this, but in this case it's just a wider piece with a tenon on each end. Allow for expansion across the width, too.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Edited 4/29/2006 10:50 am by highfigh
You could make a V block to hold the corner posts on the inside point and cut a dado with a miter bar on the table saw. You won't be removing as much of the leg as you would making square corners. The ends of the shelf get nipped at a 45°. You can put a pin or two up from underneath to anchor to the posts.
Another method is to just cut some relatively shallow dadoes in the post, making an L around the inside corner. The corners of the shelf get notched to fit the dadoes. I would probably use a stopped dado, so that it didn't show. Shouldering the entire tenon is also a possibility.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Keep it simple....just notch it in. Cut the notch just about a half mm more then the shelf and let the glue make the tight fit when the wood expands.
the fact is is that this is a very stong joint with lots of glue surface to work with. At the end of the day it will look the same as well.
Stay away from bisquetes if you can, I only use them to glue up wide boards.
You are right and dgreen is right as well, the shelf could just be floating, when the table is assembled (with some strong joinery on top) the shelf has no place to go.
Now if the shelf was very big, 3/4" thick, it may sag, in that case you will have to incorporate some support but that is for another discussion.C.
You're going to have a structural problem if your shelf is solid wood, because your legs are not going to move but your shelf will expand and contract across the grain.
Right ! let it float.C.
kcg,
Normally this bottom shelf is suspended on a set of crossed stretcher rails that are invisible from view. It is attached by a single screw drilled through the halving joint, or a set of four about 1" out from the joint. This gives the shelf some support and rigidity.
Without the shelf in, you would see stretcher rails going diagonally, joined with a cross halving joint at the appropriate angle.
The stretchers are tenoned into the leg
It looks as though, in the example you show, that the ends of the boards are set in a notch cut into the leg, but it's hard to tell from a photo. It would make sense if the board was solid, as the four corners are pinned in place as well and not as much movement would occur.
Cheers,
eddie
When I've done a piece like this, the shelf is either frame and panel or breadboarded. I use the frame as stretchers and M/T them into the legs. You could do this making a flush panel to get the desired effect while leaving the shelf free for exansion and without weakening the legs.
I just completed a maple stand for the portable TV in my kitchen which has 4 posts which are notched out to accept the shelves. After notching the posts, I fit the shelves then pegged them w/ mahogany pegs, hand cut pegs none the less. Works great wnd is very stable.
Thanks all for your suggestions. My preference is to make the shelf out of solid wood. I thought about letting the shelf float, but you would have to allow for movement and that would leave unsightly gaps in my opinion. I'll probably go with the stretchers or a frame and panel. Thanks everyone for your input.
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