Hope this doesn’t show up twice, tried to post this afternoon but it hasn’t appeared.
I’ve been wanting to duplicate this treatment for a back/arm transition but haven’t been able to figure out an efficient way to do this. Basically a multiple scarf.
Its from a production chair, a Hans Wegner design. Love his work.
Best solution I came up with was to bandsaw and then pattern rout the blanks.
Could this have been done with a shaper? Those fingers look to be at least 2″ and I don’t know if this could be done on a shaper with multiple passes.
If anyone should happen to know how this was done I would appreciate any information you could share. Photos, web links, whatever.
Thanks,
Replies
Can't help you with technique. Here's a slightly larger scale picture.
View Image
Uncle Dunc,Where did you find the photo? I'm always on the lookout for more information on Wegner's stuff.Thanks,
Edited 4/19/2005 1:01 pm ET by adastra
>> Where did you find the photo?Google image search.http://images.google.com/images?q=wegner+chair&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&start=40&sa=NWhich pointed to this site.http://www.lauritz.com/s_j/4.asp?itemid=414696&lang=1
I would be thinking in terms of fixtures that hold the part on a table-saw sled.
The fixture would hold the parts so that they are pointing up. and are thick enough that the saw doesn't destroy it, and should have a spacer block which is used to keep an equal distance between points on all parts. The blade tilt takes care of the angle.
A shaper does seem very likely. Don't have one and getting a custom cutter made for a one-off project isn't really likely.
But I've always liked how that transition was done Possibly I'll just alter and see how it looks with a 1/2" or 3/4" radius termination. I think the bandsaw, router combo is the most likely to succeed in this instance.
Edited 4/19/2005 1:00 pm ET by adastra
I think the only way you are going to get the kind of tolerances you need for that joint is with a shaper or a tenoner. Doing it by hand would probably involve a scroll saw or a coping saw and a lot of chalk fitting and paring.
You might consider a long scarf joint or one of the other joints I posteed under "Japanese joinery". You also might find a single "V" more workable. I don't know whether the joint would look better with the plane of the joint vertical or horizontal.
Michael R
Not a bad option. Since the design is originally Chinese influenced anyway one of those locking scarfs might be appropriate.What I liked about the multi-scarf was it was aesthetically softer and matched the sculpted lines better. And I do like the visual interest the horizontal orientation gives. But I'm not making a knock-off, just something Wegner-esque and wanted to try it out.Anyway, its not like I'm doing this tomorrow so I'll continue to catalog options and give it a spin in a couple of months. It'll be fun working this one through.So much better than cabinets. Its been quite a while since I've pushed myself.
Look in the classifieds, that Hermance tenoner is just whatyou need. Good price, too! I presum it's a single ender.
Michael R
"You have to look for possibilities where there are none" Krenov
A tenoner is a machine I have never used or even seen. And likely much more efficient than how I will do this joint.I'll have to delay the industrial equipment until my shop version 2.0 happens which will likely be a few years when the better half and I relocate after she gets her Phd. I'll have to get by on smaller equipment until I hang a shingle again.Thanks for the heads up, though.
The tips of the curves for the joint look awfully narrow, but if you are interested in a related type of joint that is probably easier to cut, but would be restricted to have shallower curves (I think) check out Pat Warner's books and website: http://www.patwarner.com/precision_routing.html
Look at the photo on the left, second from the top. He cuts the joint in both parts with one curved template.
That is the technique I was thinking of. It should work but its a little awkward since there are so many steps.The nice thing is that the joint automatically registers but with the thickness of the chair parts I might have a problem with bit deflection. This could be a case for the pin router I've been thinking of trying.This is a spec piece so time is a concern but I'm not fighting to stay within a bid.I'll check out Warner's tips.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled