Replies

1. 
   Jellyrug | Jan 11, 2005 10:43pm | #1

   Brian,

   I did a lot of research before jumping in, but can only give you my opinion.

   I believe HVLP with a turbine is less versatile than using a conversion gun with a compressor, specially if you get into some of the woodworking finishes. It is well suited for Latex though. Spraying some of the real thin viscosity finishes can be challenging with a turbine, where as a conversion gun, you have more options in setting up the gun.

   I use a Devilbiss Finisline III gun, with all the available nozzles and a 12CFM compressor with a 60 gal tank. The whole setup cost me around $650, compressor included and it allows me to spray just about any finish.

   If I do detailed work, such as smaller cabinet work, the compressor works very little, but if I use a big nozzle, spraying a large area, the compressor runs at almost full capacity.

1. 
   highfigh | Jan 11, 2005 11:48pm | #2

   Brian- I wanted to try HVLP and went to Harbor Freight to see what they had. Theirs was on sale for $60 (normally $100) and it looked decent, so I bought one. It worked great for the Minwax polyurethane varnish I used for my kitchen cabinets. I haven't tried it on anything else yet, but with the range of adjustment it has, I doubt that I will have a problem. I have a ~7HP 60 gal compressor and tried a lot of different pressures with good results. I hope you don't think you'll be able to spray with no overspray. There will always be that, just a lot less with HVLP if the settings are right. I wasn't expecting $400 performance but am very happy with it.If you're painting trim, I would use oil based for that. It's a lot more durable, is easier to touch up and flattens better. Thin it a bit with naptha and spray in a well-ventilated area. I did my trim with latex and wish I had used oil.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   jim | Jan 12, 2005 02:09am | #3

   Brian;

   Here is my two cents worth.  I all ready had a good air compressor so I bought a Devilbiss finish line conversion gun {needs about 3 hp compressor.}.  I also have a Asturomec mini spray gun from Highland Hardware works great but not HVLP.  So, I would say if you have a good compressor get a conversion gun otherwise go turbine.

   Regards,

   Jim

3. 
   mudman | Jan 12, 2005 09:07am | #4

   Brian,

   I have a Fuji 4 stage and like it a lot. I chose a turbine because I thought the portability would be helpfull. If I were to do it over I would get a top of the line conversion. Again my fuji is great, I love it. I seriously doubt you will be able to spray latex unless you have one heck of a compressor. Latex is the second most difficult to atomize, mollasas is the hardest. By the time you add enough water to get it to spray it will run and not set up correctly. I am able to spray latex with my rig with a little trouble, but I seen others unsuccessfully try using their conversion set-ups. Generally it was because the gun and compressor couldn't handle it. I would strongly recomend an airless setup. If you thin the paint with about 15% water, a dallop of flotral and use a very tight tip (like a 212 or 208) you wil get the best results possible with latex. Plus airless rigs cost less!! If it is a one time deal you wont need to spend more than $350 pluss $20 for a finish tip.

   Mike

   please excuse my spelling.
4. 
   user-5880422 | Jan 12, 2005 07:14pm | #5

   regarding your desire to spray latex paint, keep in mind that once you have the rig to spray finishes with there are a lot of options that open up. For example, instead of painting trim you may opt to go with a tinted varnish or lacquer (which is what the furniture makers use).

   while it's nice to spray latex, I certainly would not base my decision on that factor alone (if so, get an airless sprayer). A good HVLP conversion gun is going to run you a lot more than $100 anyways, more like $350.

5. 
   hammer1 | Jan 13, 2005 03:28am | #6

   I bought a Devilbiss Finishline conversion gun quite a few years ago. I already had a good compressor with a 20 gal. tank. I specifically bought it for painting a fence with acrylic but I would also use it for many other materials. I worked OK with the paint because it came to me with a spring missing for the fluid needle. I didn't know the part was missing and was wondering why it dripped so bad from the nozzle. Once I discovered the missing spring, it would not spray latex without thinning way beyond the paint manufacturers recommendation. Spring or not, it will suck down 20 gal. of air in five minutes.

   Today, folks like pressure pots. I would do some research and get some advice on systems from the manufacturers and distributors. I don't think you will be happy with either of the choices you mentioned. Try some of these sites and don't be afraid to contact them for help.

   http://www.ekremlin.com/

   http://www.hvlp.com/

   http://www.1st-in-hvlp.com/promotions.htm

   http://www.spraygunworld.com/

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

6. 
   bdprops | Jan 13, 2005 05:33pm | #7

   So, if a guy was looking to mainly shoot MDF trim, doors, and furniture with paint... looking for that glassy surface absent of brushmarks, drips, etc., what TYPE of gun should he be looking for? Airless, HVLP, HVLP conversion?? I have a pretty good, but smaller (4HP) compressor, for whatever that's worth.

   Also, a number of people have mentioned using oi-based or catalyzed laquer rather than latex paint. What do the pros use for doors, trim, and painted furniture. Again, trying to achieve that glassy surface absent of brushmarks, drips, etc.

   Thanks, Brian

1. 
   tms | Jan 13, 2005 10:10pm | #8

   Hi Brian,I have shot a variety of coatings from latex (via airless) to acrylic laquer and catalyzed polyurethane (via conventional HP, HVLP, and eletrostatic HP) to water based (HP), and shellac (HP). I've finished cars, airplanes, small wood working projects, casework furniture, and one table. What I haven't sprayed is any intricate woodwork like a Windsor chair.My suggestion, if your'e just starting out, is to buy a top quality, used HP gun; something like a Binks, or DeVillbiss (my favorite), because it will offer you the greatest versitility, it's easiest to adjust and learn, and there is a large market for them. You can likely find one at your nearest automotive paint supplier, that caters to professional pain shops.The paint suppliers usually offer a service to the paint shops, where they routinely clean, and tune up the guns, replacing worn parts etc. Often the shop rebuilding the guns will be stuck with them when a paint shop goes under and can't pay it's bills. They're usuallty sold at excellent prices, and they've been rebuilt to boot!Good luck,
   Tom

7. 
   HaworthR | Jan 14, 2005 12:15am | #9

   Well, Brian, I have to add my two cents.

   I bought a Turbinaire 1135 3-stage turbine bleeder-gun system.  It is not variable speed, but I haven't needed that yet.  The gun and turbine cost me about $500 on sale at Woodcraft.  With the factory needles, tips, and air caps, it shoots oil and water based polyurethanes great with no thinning.  However, I was disappointed with its ability tio spray latex.  I had to thin the latex so much with water and floetrol that I lost the sheen of gloss paint.  It looked like primer.  So, after consulting the manual and calling Turbinaire, their rep suggested a larger tip and air cap.  Someone in this thread recommended a tighter air cap, but my experience has been exactly opposite.  I plunked down the cash for their complete set of needles, air caps, and fluid tips.  It was pricey, but now I can spray anything.  Gloss latex is beautiful!  I highly recommend getting an assortment like I did.  The tips, caps and needles allow you to optimize your spray.  If you think about it, latex paint is really thick.  So doesn't it make sense that you need a larger orifice and more air to get paint through it?  Also, I bought a turbine because it was a bit cheaper and space conservative to have a small turbine box rather than upgrade to a large enough sprayer.  HVLP needs a ton of air, so you need a large CFM compressor.  Some other things to consider:

   1. Always filter your finishes.

   2. Don't spray during hot summer days.

   3. Thin as little as possible.

   4. Keep a journal of the temp, humidity, fluid tip, needle, and air cap for your finishing.  It makes a great reference.

   5. Keep that gun clean!

   Hope this helps.

   -Rob Haworth