I am looking for the most durable natural wipe on finish that will yield that hand rubbed low luster look.
I am just so confused between shellac, varnish, and poly . Finishing a cherry entertainment center.
Please Help.
I am looking for the most durable natural wipe on finish that will yield that hand rubbed low luster look.
I am just so confused between shellac, varnish, and poly . Finishing a cherry entertainment center.
Please Help.
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Replies
The only "natural" product of the bunch is shellac. Hand rubbing isn't so much a property of the finishing material, but of ....hand rubbing. Shellac is very attractive, can be rubbed out to any sheen, from satin to high gloss, and is quick to apply and to cure.
Most other film finishes--varnishes and lacquers--e products of the chemical labs. The traditional resin varnishes, made mostly with either allkyd and phenolic resins, are less susceptible to damage from cleaning chemicals and the like than shellac, and generally more durable. You can make any of them into a wiping varnish by adding thinner to "full strength" varnish.
The Waterlox line of varnishes, are very nice. The Waterlox Original/Sealer comes in a good wiping consistency, and yields an attractive mellow gloss. Waterlox also makes a Gloss varnish, which comes in a consistency more appropriate to brushing, and also a Satin varnish.
Poly is for floors. Consumer grade single-part polyurethane varnishes are varnishes made from alkyd resin modified with some polyurethane resin. The polyurethane resin makes the varnish a bit softer, which is why it resists abrasion like you get on floors. It also resists the abrasion needed to rub out the finish to an even sheen. It can be done but is more difficult than with traditional resin varnishes. The polyurethane varnishes tend to be a bit less clear than traditional resin varnish, which is why they tend to give "plastic" looking finishes if applied very thickly at all. Except for abrasion resistence, traditional resin varnishes are very nearly as durable as single part polyurethane varnishes--so near that the difference would be noticeble in very, very few furniture situations.
Thank you for your advise .I appreciate your time.
I just have one more question .
Do I need to apply a sanding sealer or wood filler prior to shellac, varnish or poly?
I may use poly just where the TV sits ,and shellac or varnish on the rest of the cabinetry.
Amox
No sanding sealer isn't needed. I wouldn't see the need for varnish with polyuethane anywhere. The TV won't create the kind of abrasion that would make any difference to speak of, at least compared to tradional resin varnishes--the TV might make a scratch on shellac that would take 10 minutes to fix. (By the way, poly is varnish--it's not a separate category of finish, just a varnish formulated to slant just a bit toward a particular application and then marketed broadly as if it were the best thing since sliced bread. I suspect it is cheaper to make.)
One way to rid yourself of that confusion would be to get hold of Bob Flexner's book:
http://tinyurl.com/2y3cg6
This is a heavily updated version of the book he first published in the early 90's, and it is the classic in the field of finishing -- complete in its scope, yet clearly written and easily understood.
I prefer Flexner, but you might also look among Jeff Jewitt's books. He has a site that provides much good information about finishing, and it will also list his various books.
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
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