ALL,
I need some 22′ to 24′ long 1″ thick x 10″ wide Red Oak. Anybody have any leads as to where to find some?
Out here in SE WI, the longest I can find are 16′. Any lead would be much appreciated.
BTW, I could rip 8/4 in half if I had to.
Thanks,
Jon
Replies
whatcha building?
DS,
Actually need to cover an I-beam to match another.
Pic's to follow when I find the digi cam.
Jon
jon, consider veneer, you can buy sequential pieces and get nearly invisible joints by booking the ends.LeeMontanaFest
Does it have to be Oak?
FInding SAB softwood in that size would be easlier, me thinkst.
Does it have to be Oak?"
Barry,
Yes, Trying to match an ajacent beam. Plan "A" didn't work. This is plan "B".
Jon
Maybe buy 13 footers and resaw them, then join them end to end.
Waynel,
Maybe buy 13 footers and resaw them, then join them end to end."
That was "plan "A"."..........$$$$scrap........
Jon
Edited 4/15/2005 9:26 pm ET by WorkshopJon
Edited 4/15/2005 9:26 pm ET by WorkshopJon
I think you are going to have to learn to do a scarf joint or a splice joint. A scarf is probably easiest, but there are half lap splices, hooked splices, a tabled joint, etc. If you really want a broad choice, look at the thread on Japanese joinery. Or try Joyce's Encyclopedia of Furniture Making.
The reason yu don't find many long oak boards is that oaks don't often have very long trunks to get long boards out of. I seldom see boards much over 12 of 14 foot long. Even 16 footers aren't all that common where I buy hardwoods.
That is not to say that someone won't come up with what you need, but I've never seen oak boards that long.
Michael R
Jon ,
Woodwiz has got the right idea. sounds like you need to manufacture the length boards you need. There are many ways to create the boards , they all involve glueups . A long steep angled splice joint in oak can virtually be undetectable if you select boards with matching color and similar grain .You could also make a planked board with staggered joints and perhaps a biscuit in the ends for alignment . We have used scarf joints when strength is not a factor .
good luck dusty
Or you could just put a decorative feature in the middle which would hide the joint.
24' boards? Must come from a 300-400+ year old tree. I have a 120 year old maple on my property, and it wouldn't yield a board that long. I remember marvelling at the big oaks and maples in London's Hyde Park. You could get long boards this size from trees that old, but we're talking several hundred years old. In other words, it's gonna cost ya, big time.
In other words, it's gonna cost ya, big time."
Time is money Barry,
My budget is about $1000.00 for three boards. Already wasted half that so far in scrap and time.
Jon
Old Growth Timber is most likely to yield lengths like that. Here's a link to a place in Ashland, WI that raises them from harbor bottoms. No idea of what the prices are like, or if they even have that length, but it's worth a try.
http://www.oldlogs.com/
Boardman,
Thanks for the link, I'll give them a call.
Jon
Woodwiz has got the right idea. sounds like you need to manufacture the length boards you need."
Dusty,
That's what I was doing. Basically laminated two layers of plywood to book matched 4/4 oak, then ran them through my thickness planer. Was going great, but in the end didn't work.
I could try again, and may have to, but at this point.........
If I could find three boards for less than $1K it would be worth it.
Jon
Here are some samples from Joyce that would work for you. They are all very simple to make with a router, and will suffice for joining solid boards end to end. The tabled joint resists twisting a little better, and the hooked splice is stronger in bending. The scarf joint, if you make it about 7 or 8 inches long in 3/4" wood will be plenty strong for your needs, too, if you let the glue cure thoroughly before handling. Don't try to make things too complicated.
If you sand the joint after gluing, you will hardly be able to see a joint at ceiling height.
If you are not confident with making these joints, any competent trim carpenter in the Milwaukee area should be able to do them for you for less than $200, including trip time. Heck, if you want to fly me up from Kansas City, I'll do them for you.......
Michael R
If you can't make the splice invisible, here are a couple of ideas for making it decorative.http://forums.prospero.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=38666.1 See scan0005.jpg
http://forums.prospero.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=56164.17
There is a lot of lumber that length. NH has several custom sawyers that regularly cut boards that length.
I expect you want clear lumber. That will cost more. I expect you want it cry and defect free.
You want 25bdft pieces more or less. I expect that $250 each would be a good price.
Geesh, I hope you guys back east realize how lucky you are with your availability of hardwood!
Maybe some day one of you with do a post about needing a huge piece of clear, all-heart Western Red (or even better, Port Orford) Cedar, and us westerns can gloat.
I often have clear WRC 4"x6"x10' sent to me. A 5 pack ships for a reasonable price.There is some nice 3"x56"x8' figured walnut on the west coast.I never gloat.
workshop Jon.
I had a sawmill operator in Buffalo Minnesota saw my 24 foot long 6x12's (white oak) Johnson Bros in Cannon Falls who I get most of my wood from is limited to about 19 foot
Jon,
Where in WI are you? I might have a few sources for you. E-mail me and I will get them to you. I am between Madison and Milwaukee.
Eric
[email protected]
I was at a place called Hearne Hardwood in southeast PA this weekend. They have an incredible selection of wood (temporarily lean on the 6/4 and 5/4 figured cherry I was looking for, unfortunately) and I have no doubt they either have or could get what you're looking for if you lived in this area. There must be an equivalent supplier where you live.
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