i am making a toolbox for my college class using walnut with mahogany trim and im looking for suggestions on finishing. Any recommendations?
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
An obvious question is whether the finish is part of the grade or is it a utilitarian question. To combine the two objectives, you might consider 2-3 applications of a thinned linseed, tung oil and varnish mixture followed by several coats of a good high-gloss poly top coat then rubbed out to satin finish. Grain filler is an option since the mahogany is very open-grain and the walnut less so but still has large pores.
BB,
What's more important to you - a finish that's bulletproof, or a finish that can be repaired seamlessly? After you've answered that question, the answers will be easier to nail down.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
a finish that can be repaireed seamlessly.
A finish that can be repaired seamlessly pretty much rules out varnish especially poly, though a thin wiping varnish finish isn't that hard. This leaves shellac as the choice among film finishes. It looks really well on both woods. Is fast to apply, and can be used over pore filler or without. Rubs out excellently. Use either Zinsser's Seal Coat, or mix your own from dewaxed flakes.
The other alternative is an "in-the-wood" finish--often called an oil finish, but I would recommend using a oil/varnish mix rather than the pure tung or linseed oil, because the pure oils are pretty far down on the protection scale. Watco and Minwax Antique Oil finish are examples.
Another alternative is polymerized oil. The polymerization makes the finish more water resistant, but some find it hard to apply on large areas because of the speed at which it "tacks up". But on a small area you can wipe on and wipe off quickly. Sutherland and Wells or Tru Oil (gun stock finish) are examples. Looks more like varnish than the usual oil/varnish mix.
thanks so much for your input and recommendations. this is a relatively small project measuring 30 x 18 x 12. Ive made several boo boos so i need to redeem myself to get a decent grade. especially since i have this same professor for a course on guitar building in January.....lol
BB,
A few years ago I re-contoured and refinished an electric bass. I, too, wanted a finish that looked great but would be easy to repair if damaged.
I sanded-in an oil finish (up to 600-grit), followed by French polish. It looks great - a nice, elbow-deep, luster with a great sheen - and it oughta be simple to repair if it gets scratched or dinged.
Hope this helps,
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
in fact, it's interesting you say that as i have purchased a set of electric guitar plans ( a flying V) to make next semester. thanks again for the info. it is greatly appreciated.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled