I tried a neighbor’s DeWalt RO sander…
I tried a neighbor’s DeWalt RO sander (5″, 8 hole, hook and loop) and it seemed to do a good job on a table top. There was some swirl with 120 grit, but it seemed to come out with 220. I really like the pneumatic RO, but don’t have a big enough compressor. Does anyone have any recommendations? I would be using it most for finish sanding 80 grit, 120 and 220. I know some people prefer 6″.
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I've got the DeWalt 5" variable speed and like it. I usually go up to 220 and stop there, frequently going strait to the finishing room with no hand sanding; swirl marks are not evident with the finish applied (others disagree, saying that you have to do the last grit by hand). It is easy to control and has a fairly firm sanding pad, helping not to round over the corners as much as some other sanders I've used. Unless you're doing a lot of sanding, and I mean a LOT of sanding, as far as the electric sanders go, I'd buy another one when mine wears out...variable speed of course (and it does come in handy).
Just remember that the weight of the sander is enough to remove material. There is no need to push the sander to the wood, all you're doing is making the scratch pattern deeper and then needing to sand longer to remove the previous grit's scratches. I typically move the sander at about 1"/sec and lap the previous pass by half. If there is a stubborn spot (i.e. tear out, dent or other imperfection that's not too deep) I will feather out the sanding to avoid getting a deep spot, or divot, that is noticeable when the finish is applied.
Thank you for all the information! I appreciate the time you took to answer my question with what is obviously a background of extensive woodworking.
I use a Bosch RO, also a 5 in model, electric. I haven't tried any other brand, but I've never needed to, as I'm very satisfied. You can buy different hardnesses of pads, for different applications, if need be. Whatever brand you get, just make sure you get the best you can. Cheap tools will haunt you until they're buried properly.
Creek, I have no luck with these ro sanders. In business 20 yrs. Swirlmarks out the wazzoo! maybe its my sanders. They collect dust now. I use vibrating ones. have better luck. Any advice becouse I hear of everyone using them.
LMC
I have those same swirl marks, but I get rid of them by hand. I use the sander to take me to where I'm almost there. What grit did you sand to? And what brand were you using? I'm curious, so I can file it in the back of my mind.
I have had 3 of the DeWalt RO sanders, and have been happy with them as evidenced by the fact I've owned 3 of them. My only complaint is that they are not very durable. I sand very little, yet I've managed to burn out 2 of them in 8 years, but that is a minor complaint, since they are such a time saver. The thing I like most about them is the dust collection "spout", which fits my Fein shop vac perfectly, and does a great job of capturing all the dust. I have never used anything more coarse than 120, and I usually start with 220 or in some cases 180 on veneered pieces. I don't look at a sander as a stock removal tool, only one to lightly refine a surface established by a cutting tool ( scraper, file, spoke shave ect.). I always sand up to 320. As noted above, as long as you move the sander slowly, swirl marks are not a problem. I'm a fanatic about the finishes on my furniture, and would hand sand if required, thank God it isn't. As a side note, I recently switched to the Norton 3X sanding disks; while expensive, they are worth it. The 220 grit cuts as fast as 180, eliminating a step in some cases, and they last longer than any other disks I've used.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
Thank you for your well documented information. 'Creekwood' mentioned that he could buy different hardnesses of pads for his Bosch RO sander, for different applications. Does DeWalt offer this? or do you find it necessary when using the DeWalt? Is the variable speed model an advantage?
I don't know if DeWalt offers pads of varying hardness. With that in mind, I guess you could say I don't see a need for it. The second sander I bought, had the variable speed feature, but I used it so rarely that when I purchased my last sander, I just got the single speed model.
Rob Millard
Rob,I use a similar type of wood prep system that you do. From the planer, TS, or any other tool, I use a #4 plane or apron plane and then scrapers until all machine marks are gone. Only then do I go to sandpaper, usually starting with 150/180 grit. I use my sander to sand curved work as well. I turn the speed down to "1" (so it doesn't beat up the pad so much, and removes material a lot slower) and tilt the pad to focus the sander in a certain spot. I keep the sander moving in a fluid motion, being very methodical to the surface evenly. I got curious and bought the micro-mesh sanding pads a while back. The only thing that I could figure that they’d be good for is removing/leveling epoxy. They also vibrate like crazy…made the dust fitting slip off repeatedly. You think you’ve seen swirl marks? Save your money.You ever tried klingspor's paper? -Kevin
Edited 4/25/2006 8:07 pm ET by grainwise
I was at a woodworking show last fall, and the person next to me made quilt like patterns in wood. He swore by the Klingspor paper, but I have yet to try it.
Rob Millard
A friend gave me some of their "J" weight paper, it's actually cloth, to sand a piece I made a couple of years ago. I was amazed at how well it held up. I twisted, pulled, wrapped around my finger and flexed, ripped into long strips and pulled back and forth like a shoe shiner...it held up to a lot of sanding and the grit didn't come off. It also works exceptionally well for sanding turned objects...for the above mentioned qualities.-Kevin
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