I already have a good mobile workbench that will also act as tool storage and TS outfeed table, and am completing a workshop that has a narrow (6 ‘ X 16′) ell on one end of the other 24′ X 29’ space. The larger area will at times share the space with two cars.
One long side of the ell already has 10″ deep floor-to-ceiling shelves and tool hanging space installed. I propose using the other long wall and short end wall (which has a south facing window) of the ell as space to mount a long but narrow permanent work bench which the SCMS and 8′ long fence will share with the drill press and other miscellaneous tools and functions.
Question is, how WIDE should this long narrow bench be? SCMS needs 24″ from back of slider bar to front mounts, but the bench could be narrower. What I would like are some width dimensions from those of you who use wall mounted benches as work spaces.
I’m already sorta using this configuration with temporary mounts etc, and it seems to work well, generally, but I am having a hard time visualizing the permanent bench width.
TIA for your advice.
Edited 7/29/2003 11:11:14 AM ET by johnnyd
Replies
diagram attached
Edited 10/16/2003 3:38:29 PM ET by johnnyd
I wouldn't make any narrower. I had a wall bench that was 30" deep and it worked well. I was able to have storage boxes on the back and still have working space in the front.
I would also make sure you have a lip on the front edge to clamp to.
Len
Thing is, the space is so narrow, and with storage shelves all along the other side, I'm thinking that I should maximize the "moving around" room by minimizing the bench width. Without room for storage on the wall side of the bench, what would the optimal working width be?
According to BIL, who has designed several good and not so good working spaces over the years, anything wider than 19" is wasted space for a wall mounted bench.
DW says make it the same as a kitchen counter top (24"?)
John,
I agree with your last statement, keep the middle working area as large as possable. Let the SCMS and maybe the DP stick out. You don't want to feel like your working in a closet.
Enjoy, Roy
Johnnyd,
I kinda agree with your BIL. If you look at the workbench as a tool, especially for planing, and you need to get your weight over the plane, then wider doesn't necessarily help a whole lot. On the other hand, very often glued up boards have he grain going in different directions and having access to both sides of the bench really helps. Lastly. I often put 2-3' boards perpendicular to the bench and plane that way. My bench is 24"x60" and up against the wall with a tool storage cabinet over head on the wall which is about 16" deep. I pull the table out from the wall and can turn it perpendicular to the wall if need be.
My point, smaller may be just as usefull and give you more flexibility in your space...
so you find that 24" is the optimal width...either up against the wall or free-standing?
My computer work station is just shy of 20" wide. Perfect for key board, telephone, miscellaneous file folders and a cup of coffee. Moniter mounted off to the side and higher.
Johnnyd,
When I was building my bench I took a look at the two extremes: Tage Frige (sp?) workbench and the Shaker style workbench. If I remember correctly, Tage's is about 22" wide where the shaker is huge....believe me, if I had my druthers I'd have about 4 different benches.
I picked the size I did because it seemed to fit the needs and constraints the best. There was/is no majic to the 24" width...it works fine. I put one large draw under the bench top which holds all the exoctic(ha,ha) measuring and marking devices...and duct tape. I store short pieces of wood under there also....adding a couple hundred pounds.
I'm left handed so I should have built a left handed bench..but I did not...I like hte look of the right handed benches better...
Thanks for your input.
I'm centering in on 20" - 24" for the bench width. I have the luxury of a bit of time to do this, so tonite I'll go out and do some mock-ups.
The reason I'm being deliberate about this is because I've made the mistake too many times before of rushing in and building something permanent but not quite right. What I end up doing then is adapting to the inefficencies.
Guess I'd rather be the frog that jumped out of a pot of water that was already hot...than the frog that jumped into cold water and slowly cooked while the heat was turned up.
I've got 3 wall mounted benches:
1) 14" x 16' long. Not deep enough to do any serious work on. (It fits one side of the garage in what would otherwise be wasted space.)
2) 32" x 108" long. Too deep. The back 8 or 10 inches just collects junk. The benefit is that I can leave all the chargers out, and can interrupt a project by temporarily pushing everything to the rear.
3) 23" x 60". Just the right depth, but not long enough.
Rob...exactly the response I was looking for. Looks like I'll go with 23" x ~ 16 feet, with the same width across the end of the short wall. When I built the shelves, I put an outlet in for chargers and radio.
johnny
Considering you want it narrower, I would make an island in the center for the SCMS that will handle it. Then I would figure the widest width of stock I could cut on it. Look at where that spot on the front of the saw is. That's where I would end the front edge of the remainder of the bench on both sides of the SCMS. You could make it slightly narrower as a section of the wide stock can hang over the edge. That will give you bench support for longer lenghts on both sides of the slider an a sufficeint work-bench on both sides when not in use as mitre extentions.
sarge..jt
zactly what I have in mind. Thanks!
johnny
You must have sat down with a cup of coffee and stared at it a while. The answers usually come like someone hitting the light switch suddenly.
You're welcome... Sounds like you already had it nailed an just wanted a second opinion. ha..ha..
Go after it...
sarge..jt
Actually something a bit stronger than coffee, but it still did the trick.
Think I'll build a 2X4 frame and then top it with either MDF or particle board... MDF is twice the $ of particle board, which is not a problem...but can I get the same or nearly the same stiffness as MDF with particle board?
Johnny
I'm partial to the MDF. If you decide to paint it, it is much easier. I got my SCMS after this pic, but here's MDF over 2 x 4's. Very versatile stuff.
Good Luck...
sarge..jt
Slap some tempered hardboard (Masonite) over MDF and you've got a nice little setup. Shoot the hardboard on with a few brads so you can change it out yearly. Don't glue it down.
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