Sarge and Mark,

Yup, I think your both correct.  When I bought this little table the fense was actually two pieces of wood and the right and left side could move independently...the corrugated lines were more important in that situation.  I changed the fense to a solid piece of oak with a hole in the middle to accomodate the bit....and have never needed the flexibility to move the fense seperately like it was designed. (I'm competeing with Sarge here for the logic award...lol).

Guess its time to pull out Norm's NYW router table plans..and find a place for it on the shop... 

BG

   I will add one thing and let it alone. I also have a split fence. I designed it that way. Reasons are: I can move it in and out to give zero tolerance on different size bits. I can shim the out-feed side between the face fence and sub fence to actually make a edge jointer with my router set-up. A straight bit is inserted and the outfeed fence does the same as an outfeed table on a jointer. I did use it for that purpose till I got the Sunhill jointer.

   Just some the multiple uses of a router table. To put in N. Ga. Hills language, "more than one way to skin a cat". Go make a router table, would you. ha..ha..

sarge..jt

Sarge/BG,

The NYW fence has sliding faces which are also removable, although the structure of the fence is one piece. The outfeed fence face can be removed and shimmed if you wanted to joint on the table.

BG,

If you have the old plans I would update to the new ones or adapt to using MDF instead of Oak for the fence, and plywood for the table. the MDF is much more flat and stable.

TDF

Tom and BG

   BG, agree with Tom on MDF. That stuff comes off the shelf about .004 flat. Sealed properly, it is a winner. I use it on jigs, extentions, tables, etc. Just seal all sides an all is well........ and cheap...

sarge..jt

Sarge,

What did you seal the MDF with? I haven't yet put any sealer on any of the router table parts, but was thinking I'd use a water based poly. I was thinking I wouldn't put anything on the MDF fence. I woudl appreciate your thoughts.

TDF

Tom

  I generally use three coats of oil based poly, standing between coats. Since you already have the laminate on, you would need to mask ( I would go double layer ) I use the oil base as I feel it has a little better water-resistence. The water base should be fine, I would probaly go 4 coats though. As you know the water will show pretty much the true color. The oil will amber it.

  I read in a post the other day about something you can use to seal the edges of MDF. I forgot and will have to go back and search. I put about five or six coats on the edge as it will suck it up quick because it more porous as wood end-grain.

   If I missed a protion of the question, shout back. Got to get an old sheppard outside.

Luck, but I don't think you'll need it. ha..ha..

sarge..jt

Tom, Sarge

My plans are about 18 months old...do they need to be updated?  I don't recall the recommended material..but the MDF is the way I'll go.

I have an old BD 1/4" router and a Dewalt plunge.  I need to hit the piggy for a new router for the table... I like to use the plunge for mortice.  Tom, are you going with a big boy router in the table? 

BG,

First off, the NYW table has been updated just this year in January and they have made some significant improvements over the previous one so I would update the plan if I were you.

I'm using a PC 75182 motor which is a 3 1/4 HP and I'm going to use a Woodpeckers PRL lift. I have the motor but the lift has been backordered. They just E-mailed me yesterday and said that I should have it for the weekend. I really wanted to be able to change bits above the table and be able to adjust the height from above the table. It wasn't cheap however. the combination of motor and lift were $600. But the budget director gave approval so I jumped on it. I think in the end the project will have cost me $1000 by the time I extend the dust collector over to it.

I was going to buy a shaper but I beleive this has much more storage and utility. Woodpeckers also makes a OSS plate which fits in the same opening as the PRL so I can quickly switch between two machines. I also got three utility storage drawers, six router bit drawers, and a wrench drawer all in the router table.

TDF

Tom,

Thanks for the heads up on the plans...I'll update.

BG

   Tom has a nice set-up going. I checked the WoodPecker for him at the Atlanta WW Show and it's extra heavy duty. The router he's using is super for the table also and geared for the Pecker (opps, ha).

   I don't reccomend the DW plunge for the table. Hard to adjust. I have a DW 621 2 HP I love, but I use it free-hand. The way the DW's are built, they are IMO not good table mounts as they are difficult to adjust underneath the table.

   You should probaly consider a 3 HP plus. You can get away with 2 HP, but if you ever push big bits with hardwood; you might as well get the 3 HP now. Also, variable speed is a plus. You won't need variable in a table unless you push some big panel raising bits. They are designed to go at a slower rpm.

   Money is the concern I'm sure. Hitachi, Milwaukee, Bosch and PC are all good choices at a farily reasonable price. Their are height adjusters available at a reasonable price. The WoodPecker is a Cadillac. There are some Chevy's and Fords out there. I don't use a raiser with a Bosch 2 HP I mount. Easy to adjust by hand. With the Hitachi I do. If you do get a Hitachi, get the special wrench to change bits. It's made by ???, I'd have to look at the cat as it is aftermarket.

   Guess that's all I can think of at the moment. Any questions generated from this, ask.

   Start saving and the propoganda with the spouse should begin early. That way when the money is there, the sales pitch has been taken care of. After all, that what-ya-ma-call-it she wants definitely cannot be made without a big hoss router. Anyone from the forum will confirm that to her. ha..ha..

sarge..jt 

Sarge,

Thanks for the information. Tom does have a nice setup..the $1000 cost was a bit of a schocker, and while his needs greatly exceed mine, it'll probably only be a a few hundred less for me...all things considered.  The good news is that except for the router most of the expense is less noticeable...to the CFO.

Like you, I like to keep the DW for free hand stuff.  Also, recently I was doing a bunch of sliding dovetails and it was nice to set up the two machines and with scraps set them up in a complimentary fashion. I think anything less than 3hp dosen't make sense..and ease of bit change is key.

The big issue is space.  I still don't have that bandsaw or jointer, altough Chassford has me interested on those bow saws and then there is that hippie Mark (ha,ha)and the scrub plane....  The way I figure, the router table like the lathe and the drill press allow you to do other things, take on different projects with different shapes....and while planes can do all that ...and awful lot of muddy fields would need to be walked to fine those planes.  I've completely re-built my shop so that everything is efficiently laid out and easily retrieved...with lots of draws and cabinets...with one spot left for the bandsaw....hmmm

BG,

Space was also a consideration for me and I actually thought that the router table would take less. However, once I got the thing together it wasn't any smaller than the shapers I was considering. It has a very large footprint. I think the top is 26" deep by 38" wide.

As to the cost, I think the basic materials (plywood, MDF, Hardware kit from Rockler, T-slot bit, drawer glides, knobs) cost about $300. A basic router plate is about $70. As to the router, I recommend the Hitachi M12V. For $200 you get 3 HP variable speed and a router with a great track record. So, for $600 your good to go. I think this is a good deal considering a 1 1/2 HP shaper runs in the $650 to $850 range. plus you get all kinds of storage to boot.

TDF

Sarge,

Got my 'Pecker today. ha ha What a great machine. Just the 3/8" plate makes it work every penny. This thing could hold up a tank. Should start installing it this weekend if the boss will leave me to it.

I have to figure out some way of providing a bearing surface for the leveling screws though, as I don't think the MDF will last under them. I'm thinking I'll mortise in a washer as a bearing surface under them.

I let you know in the progress.

TDF

Tom

   Dumb southern boy does not speak with forked tongue. ha..ha.. It is a tank and a well machined one also. The people from Pecker were very nice and helpful also. Well, of course they were trying to sell something, but I'm guessing the C/S should be good.

   The washers sound good. Don't know how much lip you have, but I would use the biggest possible to distribute that weight. Keep posted as you stated.

sarge..jt

Brian,

Congrats ! I wish I could do that.  I have done a few raised panels by hand and once using the tenon jig on the the TS, but I don't have the setup to do the moldings.  I had a meeting with the CFO yesterday, I brought the cups of tea and cookies. I approached the topic of the router table via the need to think about replacing the kitchen cabinets...as you are now prepared to do. She immediately saw the value of me having more tools, and with the snow melted, starting to rake the back yard would be really great.  How do they do that?

Anyhow, thanks for letting me share your thread.