Replies

1. 
   RyanC | Oct 30, 2006 03:51am | #1

   A couple pictures would help.

        -Ryan

1. 
   Rehabhog | Oct 30, 2006 04:10am | #2

   I was just working on it. I hope it works.

   Rehabhog

   
1. 
   mwenz | Oct 30, 2006 06:48am | #6

   I believe this is a Stanley made plane.

   Regardless of manufacturer, it's not a rare plane. Clean her up and use it. Make a new tote. Sharpen it up.

   Take care, Mike

1. 
   highfigh | Oct 31, 2006 12:51am | #7

   If it hasn't been cobbled together, it's from about as late as 1921. If you remove the frog, the shape of the casting under it will determine the age. They had three different types of this model and if you go to the Supertools site, they have photos of all three. Look around at swap meets and yard sales if you want an original replacement tote, or you can make your own. They usually came with rosewood, the knob definitely is that. Can you show the sole and other areas? If it's straight and the sides are square to the sole, it should work well for a variety of uses.There has been quite a bit of discussion about how to clean these up, how far to go with that and how to maintain them. If you do a search for these threads, you'll have a lot to go by. "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

   Edited 10/30/2006 5:53 pm by highfigh

2. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Oct 31, 2006 11:08pm | #16

   RH, I think that James hit the nail on the head. Your #7 looks like the brother of mine, specifically the No 7 cast at the toe and the short knob. I have a #608 that has a plain cap(no name or words) with Stanley casting marks, It works fine. Ya got a good deal, clean her up and go to work. Pat

1. 
   Rehabhog | Nov 01, 2006 03:39am | #17

   To all, thanks for the responses,

                                               I think it will be worthwhile to put in the elbow grease. I've just gotten today Mario Rodriguez's "Hand planes in the workshop" dvd with what seems to be a good primer on rehabilitating a plane. Coincidence, I think not...

   One thing though, I want to change the blade to one of known quality. I'm thinking about either a Lee valley or a Lie Nielson. Any comments or suggestions?

   Again thanks for answering this newby's questions about an old plane.

   Rehab.

1. 
   BruceS | Nov 01, 2006 09:39pm | #18

   Just remembered I book marked site on Dating and typing Stanley Planes.   http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating/ 

   Very interesting site.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

2. 
   highfigh | Nov 25, 2006 05:23am | #21

   Look at the iron from the side- if you see a line through the middle and a difference of color, or try to file the leading edge and the back files easily but the cutting edge doesn't, you have a laminated iron. This means that you got one of the good ones and the cutting edge is tool steel. As long as nobody overheated it by sharpening it on a grinder, it should still be able to hold a very good edge. If you do buy a Lie-Nielsen of Hock iron, get the direct replacement for the Stanley. I would try the original after sharpening and honing it. You may be pleasantly surprised.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   SawdustSteve | Oct 30, 2006 04:22am | #3

   The clue to the manufacturer is the lateral adjusting lever. I've always understood that if it is a 'bent metal, upside-down 'U' it was made by Sargent and sold under the 'Fulton' brand name. I believe that Fulton was the house brand for Mongomery Ward. So... it's not of great value, but it is a good user.
   SawdustSteve... Long Island, NY (E of NYC)

1. 
   Rehabhog | Oct 30, 2006 04:28am | #4

   Thanks Sawdust,

    but it's not bent metal. It's a single piece arm with a stud(?) swivelling on it.

   Thanks again

   Rehabhog

    

3. 
   pzgren | Oct 30, 2006 06:37am | #5

   Rehabhog,

   With the "No. 7" cast in front of the knob, the casting looks like an early Stanley casting. The knob has the characteristic early Stanley low knob shape, and as far as can be told from the photo, the depth adjusting wheel looks like early Stanley, as well. The "s" casting mark on the back of the lever cap is also typical Stanley. If there are no patent dates behind the frog (the earliest would be 1902), then you most likely have a Type 7 or earlier Stanley #7.

   EDIT: Looking at your pictures again, the lateral adjusting lever is definitely Stanley style. The markings on it will help you determine -- if you're interested -- the approximate date of manufacture. Based on your pics, I'm about 90% sure that you have an early Stanley #7. Nice score!! END EDIT

   Take a look at the brass adjusting wheel to see whether there are any markings there, as well as on the lateral adjusting lever. The iron, if it is original, should also have some markings on it near the top front. (It is possible that you have a Stanley casting, with another company's frog/iron, etc, and thus have a "franken plane." Not a collector's item to be sure, but still likely to be a very nice user plane after some cleaning and tuning.)

   Try these sites for some additional help in dating your plane:

   http://homepage.mac.com/galoot_9/ascii_dating_chart.html

   http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating

   http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm (this one has lots of info on hand tools in general)

   For replacement irons, try Hock or Lie-Nielsen. I've used both, but prefer the LN: I like LN's chip breaker better than Hock's. Irons are about $45 from either, with another $35 or so for the chip breaker. If you get the LN, make sure that you get the Stanley replacement iron: it is thicker (about .090" IIRC) than the factory Stanley, but not as thick as the LN replacement irons for LN planes (about 3/16" IIRC). Regardless, both are excellent irons.

   Hope this helps some.

   Tschüß!

   Mit freundlichen holzbearbeitungischen Grüßen aus dem Land der Rio Grande!!

   James

   ---

   Edited 10/29/2006 11:45 pm by pzgren

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/30/2006 10:20 am by pzgren

4. 
   alanplanesaw | Oct 31, 2006 04:19am | #8

   You need to look at John Walter's book on Stanley tools for a detail list of the attributes of each type.

   If, IF, it is Stanley it was made before 1902 and planes after that would have had patent dates of 1902 and 1910.  They would also have said Bailey or Stanley.

   Could have been made by Stanley for someone else as was typical of the day.

   As someone else said, clean it up, sharpen it, fettle it and work it.

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   highfigh | Oct 31, 2006 04:52am | #10

   The cap iron has the S, typical of Stanley, I would also look at the iron to see if it has the markings. There may be some letters stamped under the frog, too.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

   Edited 10/30/2006 9:55 pm by highfigh

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Oct 31, 2006 05:04am | #11

   The cap iron could be from another plane.  If only the number 7 is on the plane, as was stated, it could be any number of other brands.  Hence the name Frankenplane.

   Cap irons, cutters, knobs and handles were swapped around from plane to plane.  A Stanley cutter only tells you the cutter was made by Stanley, not the plane.  The S on the back side of the cap iron, assuming it is a Stanley cap iron, simply means it was made by a sub-contractor. 

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   highfigh | Oct 31, 2006 05:13am | #12

   Yeah, I made a comment in my first post about whether it was cobbled together or not. If it fits the Stanley parts really well, it could still be one of theirs. Either way, if it's in decent shape and can be fettled, it should be able to make some shavings. I have a couple of Frankenplanes, myself. Still having a problem getting the iron to retract fully on the #6C. Any tips? I think the frog was replaced with one from a different model.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Oct 31, 2006 05:24am | #13

   First, I have always liked your "...cut this four times..."

   Re the plane.  As cheap as used Stanleys are these days it is easier to get another one that is not a Frankenplane.  Then, you shouldn't have problems due to switched out frogs, etc.  You can get 'em on ebay for $5.00 bucks.  Flea market for similar.

   Alan - planesaw

2. 
   highfigh | Oct 31, 2006 05:38am | #14

   The #6C is a Baily, but I bought that and a low-knob #7 for $40. I'm still looking for spare parts that will make it useful. Not like my life depends on it but I would like to use it. I like old tools and unless it's rare & valuable, I like to clean them up and get them back in working condition, regardless of whether they're all fully operational.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

3. 
   alanplanesaw | Oct 31, 2006 06:19am | #15

   I, too, like old tools.  I have enjoyed renovating old planes and turning them into great users.  Same with chisels and handsaws.

   Have fun.

   Alan - planesaw

5. 
   BruceS | Oct 31, 2006 04:32am | #9

   Check inside the depth adjusting knob,  My old inset Bailey has pat.date and Bailey written in there.  You might find some info there also.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

6. 
   sharpblade | Nov 02, 2006 03:51am | #19

   As others have pointed out it is most probably a stanley.

   One additional tip, don't know if anyone else mentioned it and I missed it. Stanley used their own, homemade/special  thread for the knob and the tote. A standard #12-24 screw will not fit the casting.

7. 
   gossamershavings | Nov 25, 2006 05:16am | #20

   that plane looks so similar to a # 6(fore?)plane i got at a flea market for 20 bucks. the only thing wrong was someone had dropped the lever cap, while it was out of the plane, and broke a piece off...it still works. i alwasys thought it looked like a stanley, but there were no distinguishing marks.it's a good worker , though...any one with info on a replacement lever cap(i don't think it will be that hard to find)would be greatly appreciated.thaks everyone!   mike