That fine retailer Tilgear, in the UK, has sold me a very impressive Mujingfang ebony-bodied try plane for a mere 50 quid. It’s impressive because it works extremely well “out of the box”. The 18 inch sole is flat, the blade is very sharp and it takes wafer-thin blade-wide shavings. Huzzah! *
However, the final finish is slightly rough in the areas that are not central to its function. I am wondering about the wisdom of wreaking one or two alterations on the beast……?
The photos illustrate the plane.
1) It has one crossbar to aid in gripping it but little else. As it is quite heavy and smooth, I worry about dropping it. Would it harm, do you think, to use a gouge to make some finger grips a-la Veritas block planes, into the sides?
2) The back end displays a very square bum, rather than a contoured shape to fit the palm and thumb around, for pushing. Is it advisable to spokeshave and gouge a rounder arse on it, one wonders?
I have fashioned a small plane hammer and this works well enough to adjust the blade. There is a brass face on the hammer for the blade (increase depth/change skew) and a wood face for hitting the wedge; or the tail end (raise the blade). There is no striking button on the plane’s tail. Is it worth making a plughole and plug to act as a striking button?
NB Is it best to hit the front or back of the plane (or does it not matter) to raise the blade?
Lastly: the plane hammer weighs 5 ozs – a pure co-incidence. Catalogues seem to have various weights of plane hammers. Is there some formula or rule for determining the weight of these hammers? The home-made one works but seems to require a fairly smart tap to make things move…..?
Thanks in anticipation.
Lataxe
* For tool-addicted Brits – the Tilgear sale ends at the end of February. They have Zona saws and Mujingfang planes (amongst other items) with up to 50% off.
Replies
Lataxe,
Let me see if I've got this right:
You've got a jointer that works terriffic out of the box? ....and you want to give it a block plane body, a smoother rear end, drill some holds an increase the weight of hammer so a dumb wack works better than a smart hit?
I don't know much about making tools but I suspect this is not the route Karl or Phillip took. It might be best to put the plane back in the box, get your money back and buy a chunk of ebony.
nah, he's just braggin'. like we would if we scored that plane.Expert since 10 am.
It's your own woodworking tool, bought and paid for, and you're asking is it okay to modify it so it works exacly the way that you want it to,....
Ahem,....well in my philosophy the answer would be a resounding yes. (If the answer were no, I'd have to close down my entire shop).
Then you're asking is there some kind of standard weight and size that a small plane-adjusting hammer should be.
Ahem,...no. In my choice of this tool I try to capture the essence of the words "small," "light," and "functional" and then accept that as the standard.
Hope that helps.
Ed, respectful of conventional wisdom but not a herd-instinct guy
Lataxe,
Well, ya ain't askin' fer much, is ya? 50 quid for the plane on sale, takes fluffy unmeasurably thin shavings right outta da box, and he wants to "improve" it.....
Well, OK.... Then, find yerself a nice hefty chunk of exotic hardwood (I'm sure that Sir Philip could help you out here, especially if you add yet another one of his lovely creations to your plane collection...er.....inventory...) that will yield a suitably snazzy shape to the arse-end of yer new toy (but do make doubly-sure that it properly coordinates with the existing Ebony colour of the plane body -- your fashion consultant, I'm sure, can assist you here...), go at it with the draw knife, spoke shave, Dremel Tool, Wood Rat, etc., until it tickles yer fancy, and then biscuit-joint it on there!!! (And make sure that you use dem premium Yuropeen bickies, too!!)
Once ya got that extra bumper hooked to the bum o' yer plane, I think that a spoiler on the arse-end (ala the Porsche Turbo whale tail) and perhaps a blower on the front (you could disguise this as a striking button) -- unless you plan to turbo-charge the bloody thing, in which case you need a Hock Iron Intercooler, Instead -- would jazz it up real nice.
Finger grips of inlaid colour-coordinated contrasting wood would also add to the pizzazz!! Flame-shaped inlays -- on each side -- emanating from the area of the mouth would be just too cool!! Might as well show the world just how hot a wood-shaver ya got!!
As for the hammer, I've found that a 2 lb -- that's just shy of a kilogramme, for all y'all metrificated types -- mini-sledge hammer is most effect for adjudicating plane irons.
Just my humble suggestions for your consideration in trying to customise yer plane....
<<Meself....I'm trying real hard not to bite my tongue laughing as I remove it from my cheek...>>
On a more serious note, I've found that it works well to strike the back end of the plane to raise the blade/loosen the wedge. (Sorry, I had to put something in that might actually be of some use, after all of that silly nonsense above....)
.
Tschüß!
James
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that...."
--A.C. Clarke
Aye yi yi yi, Boy. At this stage I reserve further comment other than to ask if you have a spare set of racing bike handle bars: just shove 'em through from one side and you can ride that ther item like a Harley Davidson. My lunch is now going to take extra digesting.
Philip and All,
Now then, now then!!
You lads are just taking the mick out of this poor little plane-ignorant woodworker. When I drop the weighty ebony thang upon my toe, for lack of a proper grip here and there, I will do the usual dance and issue some special curses, in which all your names will be mentioned.
It is true I was gloating, though. I mean - 50 quid! :->
Lataxe
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