Does anyone know where I can get some throat inserts for an INCA 1200SE table saw? Garrett Wade has shipped all their spare parts out to someone named Raoul out on the west coast, but he can’t find any. Would appreciate any suggestions for finding these inserts as well as other spare parts. Thanks
Walter Plaut
Replies
http://www.eagle-tools.com
Thry these folks. They used to deal with Inca tools.
J.P.
Thanks for the suggestion. Garrett Wade put me on to them as that is where they shipped all their spare parts, but evidently there were no inserts among them. I appreciate your note.
wplaut
I'm curious why you wouldn't just make them. I was given a little information and now make 'em in batches, only a few minutes each and you get a perfect fit.
Mind you, I don't have an Inca (I have a Unisaw), so I wouldn't know if there was something that made their throat plates harder to make.
Guess I will have to make some as there doesn't seem to be any out there. The Inca has four leveling set screws and a tab on the far end to hold it in place. Probably it shouldn't be too much trouble to make one; might not need the leveling screws. Do you put leveling screws into the ones you make? Thanks
wplaut
I've put leveling screws in the ones I've made so far. It keeps the thing dead flush, and it doesn't rock at all.
The retention pin is definitely useful. I drill a 1/16" hole, then tap in a finishing nail.
I don't bother with a thumb hole to pull it out, as I can tip it up by pushing down at the back. I thought maybe it would be good for dust collection, but I don't see any difference in that regard from the stock insert. YMMV.
It's pretty easy to get the slot knocked in. My 10" blades hit the underside of the uncut insert. I use a dado blade (but any 8" blade will do), raised just a bit, to cut just a little into the bottom of the insert. Then I switch to my 10" blade, which now doesn't touch the insert, and raise it as far as I need to. Other folks, instead of doing that two-blade thing, recommend taping the insert on top of the stock insert. I've not tried that, but why wouldn't it work?
It's not hard to hold it in place before I cut through. I take the insert out with the blade in place and dropped down, then scoot my fence over so it's 1/4" to the right of the blade. I note the position on my fence's measuring tape, replace the insert, and return the fence to the position I noted. The fence holds the insert down perfectly, and cannot be hit by the blade.
It doesn't take much longer to do a half dozen than it takes to do one, so do a pile. I machine a board to 1/2" thick, trace around the stock insert with a pencil, rough cut with a bandsaw, then use a flush trim bit with the stock insert taped to the blank to get the shape dead on. Then I cut the splitter's slot with a bandsaw, add the leveling screws and retention pin, and use the dado to relieve the underside a bit. Then you have ready-to-go blanks sitting around, ready to make zero-clearance for any blade in about 20 seconds.
I use threaded inserts for the leveling screws. They're threaded on the inside and the outside. Easiest way to get 'em in is to get a hex-head bolt that fits the inside threads, predrill a hole in the insert, and use a wrench to turn the insert into place. Then it's easy to adjust the height with a screwdriver.
Hope this helps a little.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Thanks for your suggestions; I appreciate the time you took to write and will try making some of these inserts next week.
Walter
Instead of threaded inserts I use set screws, you can thread the wood perfectly with a machine tap. I use 1/2 baltic birch for my unisaw, make a bunch while you have a template. You'll need them for dado and miter cuts also.
I found a better way to put in my threaded inserts. I noticed at Woodcraft a $5 T-handle wrench that's easier to use than my old hex bolt method.
But I'd rather use set screws like you're doing, which is what's on my stock insert. But I'm not sure what size to use. Presumably in maple I'd use a fine thread, but what size? For example, on McMaster-Carr I found #10-32 in 1/2" length for 7.76 per pack of 25 (stock number 92778A121).
So how do I then tap the hole? I guess I drill a pilot hole (is there a rule for the size, or just go with the tap's shank diameter?), then use a spiral point tap (I see one for about $5) for that thread, in a tap wrench ($6 or so)? They just don't discuss tapping wood in their catalog. Thanks for any advice!My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
I used 10/24 x 3/8 set screws from a local hardware store. I had the drill bits and taps, but any big box store has the tap and pilot drill together prepackaged. You really don't need a tap handle, use your cordless drill - works great. You'll also want to lightly countersink the holes form each side to reduce tearout when tapping.
It's amazing what threads can hold by their own in wood. I have always the coarsest threads when tapping wood - works fine. More permanent solutions that I have used are helicoils, used for thread repair available in most auto parts stores.
Good Luck
The threaded inserts I've been using work, but are a bit clunky, and sometimes they're a bit loose in the wood. I think the tap/set screw combination will be a real improvement. Just in time too, I was just about to make a batch of the things.
Thanks!My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Does anyone know where I can get some throat inserts for an INCA 1200SE table saw?
I AM old and stupid BUT If ya WOODWORKER SHOUD's take about 1/2 hour and two coffee breaks!
just FUNNIN ya! really
Edited 5/26/2006 9:01 am by WillGeorge
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