Recently picked up some cherry veneer plywood (shop grade) only to find out that the veneer is only paper thin. And light weight paper at that. There’s absolutely *no* way to sand this stuff without going through the cherry into the glue or worse into the luan backing right behind it. Heaven help me if I misshandle the stuff and get a scratch since there’s no possibility to sand out even the slightest blemish.
What on earth does anyone do with this stuff? Do you just lay on a deep multi-multi coat finish and hope you can achieve something worthwhile with it instead of trying to get the material smooth to begin with?
………..
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Replies
Sorry to put it in these terms... Don't buy the thin veneered imports, or even the thick veneer imports for that matter. If you can get a good finish you are lucky. Alot of the import veneers will surface crack. When this happens, kiss that $25+ 4'x8' panel goodby. Stick with the domestic products.
Migraine-
Ad yet another chapter to the book of "You get what you pay for".
If only those sheets of thin veneer had cost jutst $25!
...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
That's what it cost when I bought from suppliers in SoCal. Washington is a whole different pricing. I'd paid about $35-$45 per sheet for domestic 1/4" (including cherry) down south.
I wouldn't sand anything that thin with less than 220g paper.
I was just working with thin mahogany ply, and next time I'm going to tape craft paper on it before working, to minimize surface scratches.
I think we should revolt and throw all such plywood into the ocean! And, we should grab our scary sharp chisels and plane blades and go at the manufacturers with a vengeance!
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
You have Japanese veneer, 1/100th " thick. As everybody else said buy american made veneers. Most american made veneers are 1/27th" thick, some come a little thicker.
mike
Dennis,
I usually shoot a few coats of nitrocellulose sanding sealer when I get hardwood plywood home. It provides a little scuff resistance, helps protect fragile veneers, and subsequent pencil marks are easily removed.
Then I go about cutting pieces to size, milling dados, rabbets, etc, as usual. Just before assembly, I'll reapply sanding sealer if necessary, lightly sand the surface with 220-grit, apply pore filler, and pre-finish where practicable.
Hope this helps,
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
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