Replies

1. 
   rob_ss | Apr 02, 2022 05:59am | #1

   Posting mainly to keep this interesting question at the top of lists...

   I have never done this, but I have seen it done somewhere on this site or YouTube.
   I don't think the ink would bleed once dried as India Ink is just lampblack soot in water. Once dried it would be quite hard to get it re-suspended so short of soaking it, it should not be a problem. As I said though - no experience, so take this as naught but speculation.

2. 
   Rob_Sp | Apr 02, 2022 07:18am | #2

   I have used it and it works fine. I didn't have any issues with bleeding. I cannot speak to water based finishes as I don't use them.
   With that said, if you have doubts or are unfamiliar with a product, you should make a finish sample using the same schedule you plan for your project.
   Here is a good source:
   https://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-black-cat-waterproof-india-ink/?fromSearch=%2Fsearch%2F%3Fq%3Dindia%2520ink

3. 
   chuckvandyck | Apr 02, 2022 07:42am | #3

   In my experience, first coat goes on great, second coat can get hairy. It dries super fast so just keep a wet edge and move fast if second coat is needed. Another method is to use a gel stain for the second coat. The india ink is super and thus surface tension can keep you from getting into some grain features. The gel will get what the ink missed.
   Also, I’ve had issues with wipe on finishes after staining/dying with india ink. So I recommend a couple coats of a sealer before using any wipe ons.
   My best results came from spraying thin coats of the india ink and finishing with a rattle can shellac.
   One more note, it will raise the grain, so deal with that however but it will be a thing.
   Don’t sand to fine or hard either. Burnishing the wood will make it tough to get a nice even coat.
   Here are a couple stools I did in ash.
   I personally much prefer the iron acetate method for ebonizing, but that won’t get you nearly as black.

   
4. 
   paulbeeman21 | Apr 02, 2022 12:22pm | #4

   I used it all the time when I worked in a frame shop. A key I found to making things much easier is to use a fine scotch-brite pad between coats. It will act like an eraser for application marks.

   
5. 
   CarlS | Apr 02, 2022 02:31pm | #5

   I’ve done it a couple times for poplar frames. I believe I sanded to 220 and then applied a couple coats adjusting coverage as when using an aniline dye. Scotch brite or similar 0000 between coats and finished with General Finishes satin oil-based varnish. I guess you could rub out shellac for a French polish but I haven’t tried that yet.