Replies

1. 
   user-7410314 | Nov 09, 2020 08:46pm | #1

   Mija - This will not answer all your question, but it might help, or at least prepare you for the questions others will ask you in an attempt to help.

   Having no idea what a Gerton table top is, I'd ask (1) does it already appear to have some kind of finish on it ? (2) Do you merely want to seal the table top or change the color ? (3) Will this be a true desk...like for paper work, or will you also use it to sever food?

   If it already has some kind of finish on it, you'll need to sand it down (or chemically strip it off) before you can do anything else. If it is bare wood, you should sand it to the level of smoothness you like before you take the next step. If you just want to seal it, and are happy with the overall color, you could just use something quick and easy like TungOil Finish, or Wipe on Poly. You can wipe it on (even outside if not too cold- just read the label)

   If you want to actually stain it (change the color), then you'll have to decide what level of luster you want when it is all done. Some stains these days are all-in-one, but usually leave you with a flattish, low-luster finish. If you want a brighter surface, you can stain (with an OIL based stain) and then use a spray poly finish over it....available in a few different luster levels.

   If you are going to eat from it (I mean place dishes or glasses on it) then you want some kind of poly coat that is moisture resistant.

   None of these options require days of wiping on oil and months to cure.

   If you know what you want when its done, you can often find really good advice in small hardware stores or small local paint stores. Don't even bother with the Big Box stores for a helping hand.

2. 
   mikaol | Nov 09, 2020 09:28pm | #2

   Hey,
   Welcome. You can finish it outside if it's about 50, 55 degrees. From the beginning, I'd use 220 grit sandpaper to break the glaze on the surface. From there it's your choice of finishes. One thing, stain is only a colorant. You need a decent topcoat. Or a 2-in-1, meaning colored varnish, Danish oil or lacquer.
   Back to where I began - you can stain 1st. A couple, 3 coats should do. You can use any number of clear topcoats over it, varnish, urethane, shellac or lacquer.
   Sand between coats, ideally 3, with 220 sandpaper.
   My only caution, make sure one coat's dry before continuing to the next.
   Info; shellac and lacquer dries quickly. Like 'right now' quickly.
   If you can find one, natural bristle brushes are best. You can use paint thinner (acetone) or mineral spirits to clean oil-based finishes out of your brushes and hands. Which brings me to a final thing.
   You can find water-based stains and urethane. They're good products you can spread with sponge brushes & they clean up with soap and water. And they're a lot cheaper than oil-based.
   Hope I helped & good luck,
   Mikaol

3. 
   jql | Nov 09, 2020 09:35pm | #3

   The simplest solution is to use "Minwax PolyShades" which is a stain and polyurethane finish. All that is required is to sand the surface and either wipe it on with a cotton cloth or brush it on. Let it dry over night and apply a second coat if you want, and put it into service.

   You may find this Youtube video of value. https://youtu.be/Cw5YjzsfEPo

4. 
   john_c2 | Nov 10, 2020 06:41am | #4

   Is it a real wood top, and not some sort of man-made material? If it's a plastic/Formica kind of thing, there is nothing you can, or should, do.

   I'm guessing from their recommendation to oil it for two months that it is real woid, and some type of glued up butcher block. Their oiling instruction would be for use as a cutting board. For use as a desk, do NOT follow those instructions. Under no circumstances instances. It will ruin that top for use as a desk.

   I hate Polyshades, and all other forms of stain and finish in one can. They are ugly, obscure nice wood, and just shouldn't be used. There are far better ways that work very fast, and turn out a far more beautiful result.

   If you are happy with the current wood color, use water based polyurethane on your wood top. You can add a coat in the morning, another midday, and one before bed, and it will be ready to use in 24 hours. Applying each coat with a foam brush will retake 5 minutes.

   If you want a little more color in the wood, use an oil based poly. Depending on brand, it will take a little longer to dry.

   If you want more color, add stain before polyurethane. Water based stain before water based poly, and oil before oil. You can put oil stain under water based poly, but you'd need to wait several days, maybe a week, before finishing.

   These are the foolproof, fast, and satisfying methods. There are 1,000 ways to finish wood. Some are best for an 18th century tea table, but would be horrible for wooden kitchen counters.

   If I were you, I would get a can of water based poly and 3 two-inch foam brushes. Do three coats of water based poly. Throw out the brushes between coats. You can save a dollar by only buying one brush and rinsing it in between coats. You'll be very happy.

1. 
   jql | Nov 10, 2020 07:54am | #5

   Ikea's Gerton table top is real wood. Christopher Schwarz glued two of these table tops together for a workbench build.

5. 
   _mj_ | Nov 10, 2020 08:50am | #6

   I had one of those tops on a utility table for a long time. It is finger jointed beech with no regard for grain direction. It will probably take stain unevenly.

   My advice would be to skip the stain and put a couple of coats of poly on it.

6. 
   Mija_G | Nov 10, 2020 03:10pm | #7

   Thank you so much for all of your advice! This was really helpful!