Hi,
In early May, 2004 I began construction of a new home. The main living area is 2600 sq. ft. with an attached 3 bay garage of 850 sq. ft. for a total of 3450 sq. ft.
This house is a slab on grade heated by hot water radiation via an electric furnace with no basement or crawl space.
The following construction outlines the foundation, slab and sub-floor. Footings were poured and weeping tile and crushed stone covering same were put in place. Next a 4 ft. foundation wall was poured and foundation coating was spread on same on the outside. The inside of the 4 ft. wall was covered with sheets of 2 inch styrofoam and the main floor and garage area was then filled in with approximately 3 ft. of good granular/drainage material. On top of this material there was 8 inches of sand spread into which all plumbing/water lines were placed. The sand as well as the granular/draining material were compacted. On top of the sand the main floor and garage area were covered with sheets of 2 inch styrofoam. Then a vapor barrier was plaed on top of the styrofoam, on top of the vapor barrier grid sheets of wire mesh were laid to reinforce the concrete slab. The heating pipes(IPEX) were then tied to the wire mesh for the heating system and the floor was poured in 2 sections, i.e. main floor first then the garage.
Upper house construction: This is a single story home. The walls were put up, trusses put in place with plywood covering and shingled with asphalt shingles. The outside of the home was essentially completed before any inside work took place. I should add there was very little rain during this time frame. The main floor was strapped out using 2 x 3 dressed lumberatached to concrete by nails. On top of this was placed 5/8 inches plywood as a subfloor. 3/8 inch plywood was added in the kitchen/foyer/utility/master ensuite/master bathroom/sunroom to bring the floor up level to the hardwood in the remainder o the hous. Ceramic tile was laid in the above noted areas with hardwood in the rest of the house. The hardwood was in the house for over 2 weeks(for climitization purposes) before being laid and no underlay was put under the hardwood. The house is heated via an electric furnace with hot water in-floor throughout. The house also has an air exchange with heat recovery system, with outlets in every room except the garage. The house also has Kohler casemet windows with argon gas, Low The heating system was up and running in early Sept. 2004 prior to ceramic/hardwood being laid. Prior to September the house was ventilated at all times when the weather was good. We now have a serious moisture problem. The hardwood flooring is ruined as a result of cupping/peaking. The grout in the ceramic tile has discoloured in places. I have removed some ceramic tile in the kitchen area and the plywood subfloor is wet.
I have had an independent heating company check the heating system for leaks and there appear to be none. There also doesn’t appear to be any leaks in the plumbing/water system. Moisture/mildew smell is noted under the kitchen/island sinks and in both bathroom vanities.
Could you please advise if you can shed some light on where the moisture is coming from, why and any solutions you could offer would be grealy appreciated.
Thank you,
Jim
Replies
My guess is that there is moisture geting in between the vapor barrior and the finsh floor and no way to get out. This can be caused by mositure wicking through the footings, surrounding your slab. But then again I'm a cabinet maker, with some experience in other trades
Homes have been built on concrete slabs for generations(all my homes for the last 30+ years were slab on grade, until recently where I'm now on a raised foundation with post/beam/floor joists)
Your best bet would be to post this on Break Time(Taunton's other site). Break Time is where the most of the "real" construction guys hang out. Give them a them a better picture of where you are, what type of drainage your have, the soil, type of weather is in you area. Where is the water table in relation to your home. Is your house stucco, type of roof might even help(But I doubt it these 2 will make a difference)
Good luck...
Edited 12/17/2004 7:47 pm ET by migraine
Skidder -
If you haven't already done so, the better place to get response and possible answer to your problem would be in the Breaktime forum - The Fine Home Building equivalent of Knots.
It sounds from your description that you paid attention to most of the details. The part that troubles me is "nailing" the sleepers to the concrete slab. I know you said the independent heating company says there doesn't appear to be any leaks - how was the system tested? The only way you'll know for sure is to put the entire system under design pressure, disconnected from the furnace et.al. and see if it holds pressure for 24 hours or more.
You don't mention how long the concrete slab was left to cure. There's a tremendous amount of water in concrete just to make it plastic enough for placement and finishing. All that water has to go somewhere.
How high is the water table in your area? Free draining or not, if any of the moisture barrier systems you've put in place were compromised during the installation of the slab, the warm slab may well be drawing moisture up from from the ground as water vapor, not free water. Once it reaches a point where it can condense if it has no place else to go, it will. Condense that is. Since the subfloor was wet in the kitchen and from your description of the subfloor being on sleepers thus the subfloor not in contact with the slab, it seems pretty evident that it's more a water vapor problem than a leak somewhere. My best guess at this point is moisture coming from the slab. If you've already pulled up some tile in the kitchen, pull up a small portion of the subfloor as well, the wet stuff. Carefully clean off a 12" or square of the bare slab below and tape a piece of clear platic sheating over the slab making sure you get a good seal all around. To hasten the test, put a strong light bulb shining on the test area to keep it warm. If the slab is still curing out, you'll get condensation on the underside of the plastic.
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
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