Inhereted Delta Model 10 RAS
I have a Delta RAS Model 10, vintage 1987(per the owners manual copyright) that is free, new to me and have adjusted everything per the manual. I’m very happy with the cross cutting and after a few “tweeks” to the machine, I’m confidant this can give me as good, or least easier cuts for half laps and crosscutting wood from my crosscutting table saw sled up too 24″.
If there are any others that have this saw in use, I would enjoy learning a few tricks that would enhance the use of this tool, not in the manual. but are only learned through experience.
One tough problem is that my table saw has a left hand arbor and this RAS has a right hand arbor, making it difficult at best to use the same dado blade set on both.
Input on making this tool the best it can be is very much welcomed.
Thank you!
Santa Barbara,CA
Replies
OK, you've mystified me. Why is it difficult to use a single dado set on a left and right arbor saw?
I guess I should have clarified that a little better. I have the Dial-A-Width Dado set and the hub always needs to be on the outside of the set. To use the set on both saws, I would need to change over the hub every time I change saws, which isn't tough to do, just a PITA.Terry
Santa Barbara,CA
Ahh, that totally makes sense. I have a traditional stacked dado, and I just couldn't figure out what the problem could be.
Getting adjusted for ply can be a hassle with the stacked dado. I've reduced the pain point a LOT by keeping a board around into which I've plowed various grooves, with the configuration (chippers and shims) I used to get each groove, written right next to the groove. Maybe in a couple years, my system will be nearly as easy to use as yours. :)My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
I just bought a similar model off of Craig's List for a reasonable $200. It had some surface rust, but it cleaned up nicely.
One thing to watch out for: Don't overcrank the height adjustment! The arm rides up and down on an aluminum block called the the "riser nut" or "riser block" that is inside the post. When you turn the crank to raise or lower the arm, you are turning a long bolt inside the post that is threaded through the aluminum riser nut. If you overcrank it, the riser nut can hop off the top of the bolt. If this happens--like it did to me--you have to take quite a few things apart to get to the riser nut and put it back on. Not terribly difficult, but a royal PITA.
Jim
I used radial arm saws for years until they came out with sliding miter saws. I was never pleased with the accuracy of them. If you are doing a lot of crosscutting, you can't beat them for the volume of work they will put out in a day. Ripping short or narrow stock can be done but is very dangerous. I sold my radial saw and put the money on a Delta Sidekick. Much more accurate but also has limitations such as dados and ripping. The size of the circle on the degree scale is the key to accuracy. For square and miter cuts the radial saw has a very small scale whereas the miter saw has a very large one. I think someone should build a radial saw with a 12 inch or larger miter scale. I might buy one.
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