Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 11, 2007 01:26pm | #1

   Best choice--epoxy on ground contact surfaces, nothing on rest and let it turn grey.  Scrub it down occasionally. 

   Second best choice--3-4 coats of a top quality exterior enamel in a light color.  (still do the ground contact surfaces with epoxy)

   If you must have a clear finish--start with 1 or 2 coats of a low viscosity epoxy such as the one from Smith & Co.  Then a minimum of 6 coats of a good quality marine spar varnish--not something with a nautical sounding name from the big box stores, and especially not something labeled "spar urethane".  The three really good marine spar varnishes are Epifanes Gloss, Interlux Schooner, and Pettit Captain's.  You will only find these at boating supply stores. 

   Then expect to scuff sand and apply a maintenance coat regularly, with the interval depending on how much sun the piece gets.  In full sun, in southern latitutes or at high elevation, count on doing it AT LEAST every year.  The signal is the first hint of the gloss dulling.  The more shade, the longer the interval. Eventually, the finish will begin to craze, or the wood underneath with start to deteriorate so that the finish separates, giving you "yellow patches".  If these are more than just "dings" it means that it is time to strip it all off and begin again.  Repair dings promptly or they will spread.    

    

    

1. 
   nboucher | Sep 14, 2007 05:49pm | #5

   "epoxy on ground contact surfaces"Newbie question, Steve: can you recommend a specific product for this?Thanks,
   Norman

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 16, 2007 03:46pm | #12

   West Systems is good product and Lee Valley offers another brand.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 16, 2007 09:09pm | #14

   For this any brand name should work fine, though you should avoid 5 minute or similarly quick cure epoxy since it often isn't quite as water proof.  I use West System because I usually have some for other purposes to.  Just keep applying it until the end grain won't soak up any more.  You don't need to let lower coats cure. 

   Edited 9/16/2007 2:11 pm ET by SteveSchoene

2. 
   bob k | Sep 11, 2007 08:52pm | #2

   Steve: Just for kicks, have you ever tried fuming white oak with ammonia? No protection, but a beautiful chocolate brown color that looks like classic Stckley furniture. Works best on white oak. There are several articles in FWW and elsewhere on technique, but it's very easy. You need industrial strength ammonia. I get it at a blueprint supply place. Just a suggestion.

3. 
   byhammerandhand | Sep 12, 2007 03:40pm | #3

   It's too early for me to give a LT durability report, but the company says 7 years and their samples are going longer than that without any degradation yet.

   I did some table surfaces for a BBQ in QSWO (with their red, "cedar") and it looks good, an in-the-wood finish. One coat, 100% solids, UV (sunlight) cured. They also have a clear and brown version.

   http://www.onetimewood.com

   (I'd go with epoxy on the end grain of the feet in ground contact, too)

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 14, 2007 06:27pm | #6

   Interesting read on the OneTime finish.  Wrench in the works for this Puget Sounder is "cures in sunlight."  Oooops, what sunlight? ;-)

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   Edited 9/14/2007 11:28 am by forestgirl

1. 
   saschafer | Sep 14, 2007 07:00pm | #7

   Maybe you could take the piece to your local tanning salon?

   -Steve

    

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 15, 2007 12:50am | #8

   Too funny.  I once bought some Bondo -- had read about using it for jigs and such, zero clearance, whatever.  Pulled it out one day to give it a try -- it was sun activated.  In February?  I think not!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   saschafer | Sep 15, 2007 03:01am | #9

   Hmmm. I've always used Bondo indoors (e.g., in the garage). Never had any problems with curing.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   forestgirl | Sep 15, 2007 06:41am | #10

   This was a special formulation --specifically UV activated.  Not like the "normal" Bondo.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

3. 
   saschafer | Sep 15, 2007 07:06pm | #11

   Ah, so it was the "Professional driver/Closed course/Do not attempt this at home" version.

   -Steve

    

4. 
   frenchy | Sep 14, 2007 01:18am | #4

   steve,

     if you insist on clear then you will have the wood turn on you underneath.. the very best clear finish (Epifanes) will only provide you with so much protection untill the wood is turned by the UV light that will get past any clear finish.

     I did my black walnut in Epifanes and it lasted about 4 years before the wood underneath started to fade so bad you could no longer tell it was black walnut...  The finish itself is still fine but the wood underneath fades.  areas that recieve less sunlite are better and if there is any moisture in the wood the best finish in the world will quickly blister off.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 16, 2007 09:08pm | #13

   The deal with getting more longevity from clear finishes is that regardless of how great it still looks you need to scuff and add an additional coat, about every year.  This helps protect the wood underneath because it adds a fresh layer to UV absorbers that are continually being used up in the varnish.  The varnish can still look good, but it isn't protecting the wood as much.  The message  is  maintenance, maintenance, maintenance.  It is a PITA, but there is absolutely nothing that makes a sail boat look like a proper yacht than teak brightwook with a gleaming mile thick coat of varnish. 

1. 
   frenchy | Sep 16, 2007 09:15pm | #15

   Steve,

     The most diligent careful apprioach to varnish still will yield a finish that sooner or later need to be stripped off and the wood sanded back down to it's original color..

    Reality is that  a year will be missed due to the various pressures we all experiance and it will happen sooner rather than later..

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 17, 2007 12:49am | #16

   This is all too true, as I can personally attest, given the number of times that I have stripped and redone the teak on my sail boat.  Clear finishes are ONLY for those who are VERY determined (or who can have "their people" take care of it.) 

   Grey is the proper teak color, and walnut also turns a very nice almost silver grey, so does white oak, though often a darker shade. White cedar is silvery grey, and red cedar rather dark grey.  In sum, natural grey is the only truely sane color for outdoor wood.  Paint (or opaque stain) still falls with within the range of reason. 

   But, there are times when a little insanity with some things is strangely necessary.  Consequently, I will touch up a few little dings this fall, and put on another maintenance coat of Epifanes in the Spring.