I read with interest the recent article on making and installing inlays .
I’m thinking of making a similar inlay, but out of wood, for use on all of my pieces.
The question is, How can I make templates for both the inlay and the cut out, that will be accurate and repeatable?
Thoughts from you masters of figuring stuff out?
d
Replies
I create all my templates using the SketchUp model. I've described this process in a blog entry for Design. Click. Build. located at this URL:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/item/31949/maloof-and-templates-by-sketchup
I'm currently making a small Hepplewhite sideboard (shown in attachment picture) with various stringing and inlay. All of this is included my design model which includes full-size orthographic views and print-outs for the inlay templates. Where there are arc shaped stringing, SketchUp also shows me the center point for the arc. This is also a part of the template, so that I can locate the cutting tool in the center point to cut the 1/32-in. groove for the stringing.
Tim
As Mom used to say . . .
" . . . it depends." ;-)
The approach depends on the size and complexity of the inlay. Relatively simple shapes can be inlayed using a router and an "inlay kit" (1/8" bit, guide bushing and collar) like this one:
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v400-1321/best_sellers
Note, however, that the level of detail is limited by the diameter of the bit/bushing/collar diameters.
Inlaying
Remember !! This is an eighth inch solid carbide spiral up-cut bit and the cross section of the two flutes is very small and VERY subject to breakage if too much is expected of it. Between 3/64" and 1/16" depth of cut would be my recommended MAX depth of cuts or less if you are into very hard exotics.
The process on the scale of a curved table edge was described very well in Dining Tables by Kim Carleton Graves. Don't know if the process would be equally applicable for a small closed shape, but it might be. The above reference to the inlay kit might be the fastest solution.
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