I’m making a large country style Maple table for someone who wants pieces of slate inlayed into the top. I’m not sure the exact size(s) of the slate pieces. If a piece is, lets say, 8″ x 12″, should I let them float or should I glue/epoxy them in place. I was thinking of letting them float for cleaning purposes and for contraction and expansion of the top. Has anyone done anything like this in the past?
There are more old drunkards than old doctors. Ben Franklin
Replies
I vote for float. Furthermore, I'd suspend the piece......ie let there be a clear gap all around the slate with "hidden" supports.
Or put a couple of those little felt stick-on dots under each corner. Sears Hardware has them.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Aha! You've both given me a good idea. Float and use either felt or clear rubber bumpers underneath. Now only if the client will think this is a good idea. If she doesn't budge I'll have to use pretty small pieces so they stay put.
Thanks for your input.There are more old drunkards than old doctors. Ben Franklin
Bleu,
How about a compromise? If you bed the slate in silicone caulk/adhesive it will be held safely in place, yet still be removeable if one breaks. As an added bonus, the silicone remains elastic for a long time, acting as a shock absorber (especially during transport). The amount you apply will determine whether it's visible. You can grout between the slates or butt them up tight to one another.
I'd pre-finish all of the wood before applying any silicone, so it won't contaminate the bare wood and interfere with the application of finish later.
Just a thought,
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
I think I would also vote for silicone; but I wonder about using good old construction adhesive?
It does occur to me that you should check with the slate distributor to find out if they have any recommendations for your application. I know, for instance, you have to be careful with marble, since (apparently) certain adhesives can migrate through the stone and stain the show surface.
Do you have to grout slate?
"Do you have to grout slate?"
The last piece I made with a slate top used three 12" X 12" slate tiles set into a mitered white oak frame that wrapped a 3/4" plywood sub-base. I bedded the 3 tiles in thinset using a notched trowel and used sandless grout.
I'm not sure I would use the same procedure in large table top because of the likelihood of the top flexing and popping the tiles loose, but it worked very well on a top as small as 12" X 36", plus trim.
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
I made an endtable for a piece of onyx that my sister had. The top was made as a frame and panel (the panel being the onyx). I inset a plywood bottom that the onyx sat on. No grout or adhesive was used. The onyx fit quite tightly. Everything is still OK after 3 years. The joints were mortise and tenon.
The top I'm making is going to be roughly 84" x 46" of 6/4 maple. I think I'll probably end up floating any larger pieces and setting small pieces with epoxy just in the center of the inlay so the wood movement won't loosen them.There are more old drunkards than old doctors. Ben Franklin
What type of top coat are you planning to apply to the slate? As I understand it, slate can stain fairly easily. I came across a coffee table a few months back with an embedded piece of slate. The owner of the furniture store could only tell me that the slate was treated with a 'lacquer-like' finish to protect the stone from staining. It was a wonderful piece but I never have found out how it was finished ...
thx.
I've had good luck sealing slate with ordinary tile sealer.-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
I have an entertainment center/cabinet that I built where I used a piece of slate for the top. I used polyurethane thinned with mineral spirits and wiped it on. I think I did a couple coats. It looks great, although we have a tv on top of it so it doesn't get the use a table would.There are more old drunkards than old doctors. Ben Franklin
I built a 4'x10' dinning table. I made the frame out of 2x6 pine. I wrapped the frame with 1x6 oak. I puta 3/4" plywood top with concrete baCKER BOARD AND LAI 12X12 CERAMIC FLOOR TILE WITH THIN SET ASND SAND GROUT SET IN A 1X6 OAK FRAME. i'LL PROBABLY NEVER MOVE THE TABLE BUT THAERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH CRACKING, SAGGING OR ANYTHING. iT LOOKS GREAT.
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