Replies

1. 
   _mj_ | Apr 08, 2024 08:15pm | #1

   How many, and what are the lengths, depths, and application?

2. 
   lauriamc | Apr 08, 2024 09:00pm | #2

   There will be 8 where the shallow mortise is 1 1/4" wide and 9/16" deep and the inner mortise is 5/8" wide and 1 7/8" deep. There will be 6 where the shallow mortise is 7/8 " wide and 9/16" deep and the inner mortise is 9/16" wide and 1 7/8" deep. Those mortises make up the 4 bed posts of a bed frame.

   The side, head and front rails fit into the shallow part of the above mortises and a slip tenon on those rails locks them into the deeper mortise. Hope that makes sense.

3. 
   _mj_ | Apr 08, 2024 09:48pm | #3

   Look up the commercial templates made for Soss hidden hinges, you might get ideas for making your own templates to use with PC style bearing collars.
   If you start by building the templates cutting the tenons to fit the routed mortices it's easier than trying to build templates to accept pre-cut tenons.

4. 
   hotdogman | Apr 09, 2024 05:14am | #4

   I suggest you make templates for both mortises and use a collet on your router. When you make the templates take into account the collet distance and make registration marks on the templates that center the mortises to one another. The suggestion is to start with the smaller mortise and scribe the registration marks also on to your work piece so you have a reference to center the larger mortise template.

5. 
   rob_ss | Apr 09, 2024 06:14am | #5

   This is a great question.
   I would use a jig with a guide bushing to ensure accurate travel to cut the outer mortise. You need a slot in a somewhat over size blank. Before cutting anything, run the router to each end of the jig and fix a stop block at the end of travel to mark where the base reaches.
   Cut the first mortise using the full width of the slot.
   Use two spacers to limit travel to the centre width then cut - perfect centre every time and adjustable.

1. 
   jharveyb | Apr 09, 2024 12:02pm | #6

   I'm basically with Rob ss. I lived for years without guide bushings, so I would use a round base on my router, and attach strips to a piece of flat plywood (or a wide board) that are parallel. Distance apart = Diameter of router base + width of mortise - diameter of router bit. Put strips at each end to limit travel/height of mortise. Then use equal strips on each side to limit travel for narrower mortise. Attach a clamping cleat to bottom of plywood jig parallel to strips for attaching to bed post. Mark base of router and use the base in same orientation for each cut to eliminate any inaccuracy created by router base not being perfectly concentric with bit.
   Note: you must use a router bit for deeper mortises that is at least slightly narrower than the mortise, so that each mortise wall is gauged from the strip on its side of the jig, not both from one side.