Replies

1. 
   DennisS | Nov 25, 2002 07:17am | #1

   What sort of thoughts did you have in mind, Rocky? Quality of the machine itself or the issue of left vs right tilt??

   I'm satisfied with mine (let tilt Unisaw) both from the standpoint of quality of the machine (although I'll never know what I *might* have had if I'd held out for the General I swooned for) and I 'grew up' with a left tilt contactor's saw so don't know any better (grin).

   My choice was dictated by the proximity of a local dealer (my home town vs the nearest General dealer 200 miles away) and price (Powermatic vs Delta). - I'll never know what I'm missing out on on that score, either.

   But unless you're a seasoned pro using your saw to make your living, I don't think you'd be making a mistake on the Unisaw. And if you're not partial to either left or right tilt, there are arguements for both. But I always check both infeed and outfeed distance with a tape or rule rather than using the fence gauge anyway.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   rslatm | Nov 26, 2002 03:51pm | #5

   Dennis...what's with checking the measurement with a tape? You do have a modern type fence?  That's the nice thing about modern fences...the scale on the beam, once verified for accurary, works great. When I think about the days of old with those jet-lock fences...ugh!

   Rick

1. 
   DennisS | Nov 26, 2002 06:25pm | #7

   > ....Dennis...what's with checking the measurement with a tape?

   Force of habit .... don't trust the parallax between the fence cursor and the scale .... force of habit.

   My old Craftsman saw had a fence you could drag to a 10 degree angle, lock the handle and it would stay at that angle! (grin). So it just became a ritual to check both in and out cut distance from the blad to fence with each setup.

   I realize the Bies fence on this new saw of mine is supposed to be accurate and all that but I've noticed that when moving the fence to a new position and clamping it down, the fence will move little as the clamp brings pressure to bear on the front rail. Thus I always slap the tape on it just to stay in the proper comfort zone.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   rslatm | Nov 26, 2002 07:02pm | #8

   You can trust the Bies to stay parallel.  That's one of the main selling points of the fence.  You're only supposed to lift the locking lever enough to be able to slide the fence, that way it minimizes it angling.  Break that bad habit and enjoy the Bies.  Been using a Biesemeyer since they first came out.  Don't be afraid to modify the fence.  There isn't a tool made that can't be improved in some way. I'm still coming up with modifications and jigs for mine all the time.

   Rick

   Edited 11/26/2002 12:06:21 PM ET by rsl

2. 
   user-135888 | Nov 25, 2002 05:47pm | #2

   Hi

   I have a left tilt

   To me the biggest difference is for dados you lose the ability to use the fence and its measuring system on a left tilt. I miter using a scrificial fence and miter into the fence. As far as saws, Generals are way too far way from me and I'd prefer a powermatic anyway, then delta. I've used most brands of saw.

   john g

1. 
   tbhs1964 | Nov 26, 2002 05:44am | #3

   Why miter into a sacrifical fence if it tilts left

1. 
   DennisS | Nov 26, 2002 09:41am | #4

   Rocky -

   What I've been told by pros I've worked around is - you never want to have your work piece under the blade. That is, if you're ripping a long piece at an angle, your work piece - the finished piece - should be above the blade. Thus for a left tilt arbor, your work piece, the piece you're pushing alongside the fence, would indeed be on the right side of the blade.

   I don't understand the need for a sacrificial fence for a left tilt machine either, at least for ripping.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

2. 
   user-135888 | Nov 27, 2002 01:23am | #9

   Hi Rocky

   The same reason as with the right tilt. You can still get a kickback. the blade is actually cutting away and up from the fence especially with a bigger panels it can get a little harry. Into the fence is easy even with pieces you wouldn't want to put between a blade and fence, and it's just become a habit.

   As far as the question about the measuring I do different size dados and I think it's easier to measure with a tape than devise some way of getting around using the tape. I have a t-style fence.

   john g

2. 
   rslatm | Nov 26, 2002 03:59pm | #6

   John...Don't know what fence you have but on my Biesemeyer I made a simple modification of the cursor so I can put the zero reference point any where I want in regards to a full dado so now I can have the best of both worlds with a left tilt!!  Never seen a tool that couldn't be tweaked for superior performance

   Rick

1. 
   tbhs1964 | Dec 05, 2002 04:45pm | #10

   Do all accessories that work on the RT work on the LT?

1. 
   rslatm | Dec 05, 2002 05:43pm | #11

   Not exactly sure. I've heard some people mention about the tenon gauge. Personally I use a slot mortiser and if I did need a tenon gauge I'd make one that rode on the fence rather than the miter slot. I'm sure it could be modified easily enough.  Not sure what accessories you'd be talking about per se. I've done all kinds of unusual cuts and made my own jigs.  Left tilt has never been a handicap in anyway.

   Rick

1. 
   EBrandt | Dec 05, 2002 07:19pm | #12

   I have a left tilt general, and my delta tenoning jig required a 1/2" spacer block against the face of the jig in order to get the same range of adjustment I had on my old Delta Contractor saw. I don't know if this is because its a General saw and a Delta tenon jig, or if its because the tenoning jig would need that spacer for any left tilt saw (unisaw, etc). Easiest way to check is go to your local store and slide a delta tenoning jig on the unisaw and see for yourself. :)

   I like the left tilt, but its downsides for me are that putting a dado blade on requires me to 'override' the fence's scale as mentioned earlier, and the dust port (at least on the general) is on the left instead of the right (where it is on the right tilt models). Dunno if that makes a difference to you or not, but consider it if you've already got DC in your shop. Not a real big deal.

   I'd buy the left tilt again, but I think I'd also do just as good with a right tilt.

   Eric.

2. 
   rslatm | Dec 05, 2002 08:00pm | #13

   The scale is an easy fix on a left tilt.  Essentially I've lengthend the adjustment slots so I can put the zero reference point at eother side or the middle of my widest dado.  I'm amazed that this seems to be such an issue that some  favor right tilt over it.   

   Rick

3. 
   tbhs1964 | Dec 06, 2002 07:08am | #14

   how did you do it?

4. 
   rslatm | Dec 06, 2002 01:52pm | #15

   My bies is an older model with a plastic plate that has the adjuster slots. The Plastic plate fastens to the "T" of the fence and the cursor mounts to it. The plate has the adjustment slots. By putting a longer adjustment plate I was able to lengthen the adjustment slots which in turn lets me put zero anywhere I want. The new Bies is a bit different but I sure I could modify it. The new HTC would work and I will have to look at a Unifenece but I'm sure something could be managed.

   Rick

   Edited 12/6/2002 5:53:11 AM ET by rsl