Inset doors/drawers for kitchen cabinets
Hey Guys,
I posted this over at breaktime but I know there are some cabinet guys here as well.
Up until now all of my jobs have been face frame w/ overlay doors. I have a customer who would like face frame w/ inset doors and drawer fronts(with beaded edges). I have some ideas as to how to construct the doors, but I would like to know how the other pros do it (I’m not looking to cut the beaded profile around the door with a scratch stock. My plan was to apply the beading after the doors are constructed.
More importantly what hardware (hinges) is available for this type of application? I would like to stay with euro hinges if possible.
This will be my first job using dovetailed drawers and blumotion soft close drawer slides so any info pertaining to this you could give would be much appreciated as well.
Thanks,
Lee
Replies
You can get Euro hinges for inset doors (Blum, etc.). The choice is somewhat limited if you want to use them with face frames, but they do exist.
-Steve
Hi Lee ,
I take it you are referring to Cock Beading , typically the beading goes around the inside of the openings , not around the door and faces .
The hinging is that which is standard for any flush inset doors , there are several mounting choices and perhaps degree of openings .
good luck dusty
Hey Dusty,
I had not thought of beading the face frames - the customer asked about beaded doors. That sounds quite a bit easier. I could make the doors a hair bigger and then trim to fit the opening. I meet with them on wednesday and will find out if they are looking for euro hinges or regular (found some euro blum that will work with face frames). I also found some wraparound full inset amerock hinges that look kind of cheesy.
This is one of those jobs that if I land will make a very nice "calling card" for my website.
Have you used the blumotion undermount slides before? I am wondering how to set the depth so the drawer front is flush with the face frame. Is there some type of stop built in?
Lee
Lee ,
Wrap the bead in the openings , then take your measurements to make your doors . Make them about an 1/8" - 3/16" shy overall of the openings and they will fit first time every time with a minimum of trimming to size .
Can't help you with the slides you wish to use , but I do think they have a stop built in .
dusty
I have just installed some of the Blum Tandem slides into a cabinet. There is no fore and aft adjustment, but a simple mock up will tell you where to set them. I have found these slides to be very easy to install after figuring it all out. The local supplier has a demo drawer/cabinet they lend out but it was never available so I did my own mock up using a fake drawer and the actual cabinet. There's an installation kit that comes with a couple of drill bits and holders along with a drilling jig. This is a must. It only costs a few bucks and will save you from having to make one. I think I'm grateful that the demo drawer wasn't available because I think I learned a lot about the slides by worrying it out for myself. The action of these is sweet. They are costly, but for special work I think they are worth it. I hope they hold up to use.
Oh, because I used 1/2" ply for the drawer sides I shimmed the side another 1/8" thicker below the bottom so I could keep the drawer the fullest width possible. Study the install instructions and you'll know what I'm talking about.
Best of luck on the commission.
The inset clips for the tandems are depth adjustable using a simple screw/cam adjuster. But the inset clips cost about a dollar more that the regular ones.Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
Definately apply the bead to the face frame, it is easier to get a nise look and there are no worries about the bead comming off. If the client has seen cabinets with the bead on the door it is because production cabinets use mitered doors with the bead on the door. This is a short cut. If you can explain this to the client and show some pictures of it both ways I think that she will agree.
If you have the machinery and are good at setting up odd cuts it is faster and better to machine the bead into the face frame then notch and miter the bead. I prefer this besause it eliminates the tedius task of installing all the beads and the aditional glue clean up. Not to mention that it is a better way to do it from a durability standpoint.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
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