One of the FWW articles on baseboard molding said an inside corner should be a simple butt joint, not a miter joint, and it gave a rule as to which piece should be butted up against the other.
It matters (okay, not very much) because wood movement may cause the joint to gap over time, and the gap is more noticeable from certain points of view. So you’d assemble the joint assuming that it will be viewed from the entrance to the room.
Of course, I can’t find the article now, so I’m uploading a sketch of two inside corners. Is the one on the right the “correct” assembly, if the arrows are the path into the room?
Janet
Replies
Baseboard corners
Hi,
The one on the right would hide the gap from expansion/contraction from the direction of the arrow.
That said, I would just make the joint the direction it is easiest to make an accurate, close joint. Some ways will be easier than others, and some joints are only possible in one way. For 3/4 or smaller the expansion/contraction isn't going to be much, and no one really looks very closly at baseboard anyways:)
The reason to use a butt joint is that a miter joint can open under the right humitidy conditions. It is more of an issue for an inside miter joint, for an outside one, you just nail the joint shut. It also can be difficult to get an inside miter cut to the right angle, corners aren't exacly 90 all the time.
Oh, good, that makes it easier. Thank you!
Janet
Baseboard inside corner question
Just wondering why you wouldn't cope the joint? Especially if the profile of the baseboard is anything other than a squared piece of stock.
I'll cope the basecap molding, since it has curves, but how would the flat baseboard be coped?
Janet
Baseboard inside corner question
Janet,
Now that I understand that your baseboard has a cap you wouldn't need to cope it. My baseboard and all the ones I've worked on in my neighborhood, 100+yr old houses, usually have fairly complex profiles (no cap).
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