Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 01, 2010 11:10am | #1

   How on earth is 5 hp. not enough power for a bandsaw limited to 14" resaw capacity?  Just curious.

2. 
   bones | Oct 01, 2010 12:17pm | #2

   WOW

   From a 5 to 10HP!   Man what you cutting!  Seriously though you must have either a heck of a phase converter or direct 3phase power.  I looked and griz does not sell a saw with a 10hp option so I would go find a bandsaw mfg that does and buy the switch parts and make a box for it.   Just a thought.

3. 
   JohnWW | Oct 01, 2010 06:09pm | #3

   Overkill

   I have to agree with the previous comments, there is simply no reason to try to power a saw of that size with a 10 hp motor.  

   I just installed a new 4 hp motor on a larger band saw than yours in a professional shop that resaws large planks daily.  The previous motor had been a 3 hp and was considered adequate for wide resawing work, we went to 4 hp motor because it cost just a bit more than a 3 hp replacement.  The original 5 hp on your saw should have been more than adequate.

   As to the switch, I doubt if anybody makes a compact switch for a motor of that size, at 10 hp you are playing with the big boys now and you will need a switch to match.  The best approach would be to install the magnetic switch in a box elsewhere on the machine and then install a small two button remote switch where the original switch is now.  You will probably also need to upgrade the wiring, possibly all the way back to the circuit breaker panel.

1. 
   [email protected] | Oct 02, 2010 07:03am | #4

   Thanks for the comments so far.  I reckon I should have explained what I use my bandsaw for.  My bandsaw is set to run as a sawmill.  I have attached a picture of the wood I cut and and a video of my operation.  The motor came out of a Shop Fox 10hp belt sander that was sold to the Amish and the circuit board was sold to someone else.  The electrical componets were all wired together internally on a large circuit board.  I found magnetic swithces on ebay but can't be sure of application for me.  When I am cutting green wood, mostly white oak, I can tell pretty quick when the blade starts to loose its sharpening.  Most sawmills have a full time lubrication system.  OK, but the motors are above the mill.  I would have fluides running down my bandsaw heading for the motor.  When I cut all day I would be able to increase production with the larger motor.  Then you would say why dont you go buy a saw mill.  My answer is I quartersaw everything for wood stability.  There isnt a production mill that can cut the way I do.  I always am cutting the best face of the inside of the quartered log.  I make mission furniture and love the look of rays in a piece of white oak.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FZtIg5HeR0  Again, Thanks.

   
4. 
   bones | Oct 02, 2010 09:19am | #5

   Thats cool

   Now everything makes sense.   I watched your vid. that's a very creative way to get a bandsaw  mill.    Since its just for a bandsaw mill you could just throw  on a simple throw switch.  I am curous, what kind  & size of blade are you using  I have a 17" 2hp grizzly and have been very impressed with mine! I just ordered a resaw king blade and I'm waiting for it to come in.  

   I have to admit I'd never heard of a single phase 10hp motor though, I'd bet that's a heck of a thick copper wire how many amps is that.    :)  

1. 
   [email protected] | Oct 03, 2010 07:36am | #6

   Blades

   The blades a 1 1/4 timberwolf 2-3 tpi 45 mils.  This blade is made especially for cutting green wood with large gullets.  I get them from Suffolk Machinery.  They cost around $25.  I've only had one come apart on me because I wasn't watching after each sharpening.  I've been wanting to try Wood-Mizer blades to see how they compare.  There are some really good blades I hear about in another forum but I've been happy with the timberwolf blades.  Wood-Mizer won't sharpen the Timberwolf so before I learned to sharpen them I was sending them to GA.  Most  times the resharpened blades last longer cutting than the factory sharpen. 

5. 
   bones | Oct 03, 2010 09:50am | #7

   timberwolfe are good blades.

   I use timberwolfe blades and have been satisfied.   I am curious how you heft those log quarters up on your rack to push them through? Do you have a few lads working for you, or some other method.   I use to have an extra pair of hands in the shop, but my boy decided that the US Army was calling him!   Good luck and post some pic's once you get that monster going.  Take care.

1. 
   [email protected] | Oct 03, 2010 07:01pm | #8

   Hoist and magnetic switch.

   I built this hoist so I could roll out of the garage pick up a quarter and either roll the whole stand in or just the motor with the log attached.  The hoist is capable of 2000 lbs.  If I really get a heavy quarter I can use my trailer with a 9500 lb winch.  My trailer also has a roller I installed to help in the loading of logs.   I went online and looked at the schematic and realized I needed a LC1 D50 with LR2 D33 Class 10 overload.   Now I just need to find an inexpensive one.   Thanks for all your help.

   
1. 
   RalphBarker | Oct 03, 2010 08:41pm | #9

   Nifty setup

   You ought to do a YouTube video of the process. Who knows, you might go viral . . . in the good way. ;-)