I have a one-car garage that I’m thinking of insulating with Icynene foam to keep my shop warm in the winter. In case your not familiar with it, Icynene is an expanding, open cell foam used in a lot of newer, high end construction. It’s not cheap, but it’s good stuff. Has anybody here used it in their shop? If so, how are you liking it?
Toolfanatic (a.k.a. The man formerly known as “Toolfreak”)
Edited 11/6/2005 4:48 pm ET by Toolfanatic
Replies
Hello
No I've never done anything with that stuff. Although I have seen it on This old house, sometime in the past.
Can you fill me in on this product? price, is it something "WE" homeowners can do your self? or is it something that need to be done by the PROS.
I work with fiberglass at work, "MAN" I don't want to insulate my garage with that stuff, besides the ground water/flooding factor, (fiberglass will suck up water like a spunge.and latter grow mold.) fiber glass just makes me itch!
They say asbestos is bad. "well", I will guess that before I die they will say the same things about fiber glass in the future!
I researched isocyenen when I built my house. The R factor isn't that much better than fiberglass. However, it really stops air movement through cracks etc. My current brick house wouldn't really benefit from it, but my drafty old vinyl clad house would have.
I hpe that helps,
Frank
Interesting conclusion. When I had conducted research 4-5 years ago it had something like a 3-3.5 R value per inch. So, that conclusion is about right. BUT, the big benefit over fiberglass is its ability as a spray-on foam insulation to seal a cavity and prevent air transport. In fact, sometimes it can be a problem and you have to install an air-to-air exchange to bring in fresh air and draw out CO2.
There is another spray-on foam product (Corbond?) that is R-7 per inch.
I was thinking of going into that business using a soy based foam.The start up costs were 70 thousand dollars with 3 phase equipment, 300 feet of heated hoses and a lot of complicated equipment to maintain. I built a woodworking shop instead, , much better!
It sounds like you made a good choice! ;-)C.A.G.
I believe that is what they used to insulate my shop 3 years ago. It is a spray-on foam mixed from 2 components that rapidly expands and turns rigid. I has a creamy yellow color. The building is metal, insulated to R-15 on the walls and R-19 on the ceiling. It made it air tight, and the sales pitch said it also increased the structural strength by 50%. I can't prove that, but I do believe it is stronger since the insulation binds all of the members and the sheet metal together. In any case I am extremely happly with it, and would use it again. Cost at the time was about $1 per square foot of wall and ceiling area. How that compares to today or your area I do not know.
Ken
KMac-What kind of flame spread rating does it have? What about toxicity of fumes given off if subjected to fire?Just curious. I doubt that it can be left exposed??
I do not know your local codes but 'foam' and paper backed will require at least 1/2 inch sheetrock or equivalent for fire proofing?..Anyway you WILL like the foam and well worth the cost.. Paint that sheetrock a nice bright white.. You NEVER have enough light in a shop.. Just me...Go to http://www.icynene.com/ and http://www.energysmartinsulation.com/faq.htmlEdited 11/7/2005 6:35 am by WillGeorge
Edited 11/7/2005 6:38 am by WillGeorge
Around here (northern NJ) it requires at least 2 layers of 5/8" gyp to meet code in the jurisdictions that even allow it. The stuff burns fast and fairly noxious, but it sure does insulate well. As I recall though, it does take a fairly high heat to start the burning. Also keep in mind that regardless of what the salesmen say, it does off-gas for a while after installation. As stated, it will close up gaps that batt products do not.
Thanks for the reply, Terence.I suspected that if this stuff was like some of the foam-in materials I've seen used around here, it would be kinda nasty if it got too hot. Few of us realize just how dangerous some of the 'modern' materials are in a fire situation. Fortunately the weather in my area (Western WA, Puget Sound area) isn't so dramatic that I have to worry too much about insulation in my shop.
I cannot definitively answer your question. In fact I do not know the chemicalmakeup of the foam. When it was installed there were two types offoam...regular and fire resistant. The type I have is a two-part fire resistant. It was demonstrated to me by applying a lit propane torch toit. The area where the torch was applied would char on the surface about 1/16"deep, but once the flame was removed all charring stopped. In my location a 1/2" drywall must be applied over it ifit is install in a wood framed structure used as a residence. The inspectortold me it is approved for metal buildings and he okayed it. Sorry I cant give you a more scientific answer.
Ken
Used it to insulate basement b4 finishing 2100sq. ft. Works great would use it again.
I have all my walls insulated with sprayed on cellulose insulation. It is sprayed on wet and takes weeks to dry. It is treated with a chemical to keep if from burning and also with a insecticide to prevent bugs. It totally stops all drafts. If memory serves me, the insulation value is about the same a fiberglass.
My house and shop are so air tight, that the run the stove vent, I have to open a window!
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