Replies

1. 
   jackplane | May 02, 2005 10:54pm | #1

   I can't tell whether you want a shutter or a raised panel? Two different things.

    

1. 
   bladeburner | May 02, 2005 11:14pm | #2

   These I made on the TS, but I would like to make the rest on the router table.

   Joe

   
1. 
   jackplane | May 03, 2005 04:59pm | #3

   ok, so these are raised panels. I'd use a vertical raised panel bit. This newer style replaces the older horizontal, and a little more dangerous, style.

     The spinning mass of the bit stands vertical so there's less vibration and noise. They work well- you'll just need a good router and table with a tall fence (you can make).Fence should be at least 4" high, taller is better, cut endgrain first then edgegrain. I've done this in oak with a 1.5 hp router, several passes; a bigger hp motor would help. 

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 05, 2005 04:10am | #9

   vertical raised panel bit as stated in the other post is the way to go..

   For what it is worth.. Make a TALL fence and some feather boards..

   I would also suggest that the table on the out-feed be as long as possible  AND FLAT..

   Well some support out there that will not cause your stock to move..

   I have one that replaced a Horizontal.. Horizontal scared the blank out of me...

   EDIT..

   I forgot.. I did the cuts in several passes.. But then again I do that with all my work on the router table. A little extra work but better results.. I think?

   Edited 5/4/2005 9:12 pm ET by Will George

2. 
   none | May 04, 2005 05:19am | #4

   When  raising panels with a vertical bit,use a horizontal router table. Let gravity work with you, not against you. If you are raising them on table saw, see  Ian Kirby's article in American Woodworker(Dec 1998-#70). He builds a carriage that tilts and the blade remains vertical. Wowed a lot of folks the last time I taught a table saw workshop with this jig. If you can't  find this issue, let me know and I will lend you a copy.  You can also use a moulding head on a radial saw(Yes I said radial saw!). If they are cove cut you can also use a moulding head on the table saw. Use 1" round cutter for best results.

3. 
   notDusty | May 04, 2005 05:08pm | #5

              Joe ,

                          Another option is to make separate panels and place them back to back in the frames if you have enough thickness in your frames .

                      good   luck               dusty

1. 
   bladeburner | May 04, 2005 07:14pm | #6

   I sliced the panels front and back on the TS (flat profile) for the first couple and dropped them into grooves in the rails & stiles. My shaper bit (ogee) cuts too deep to raise front & back on 3/4" stock.  That's why I used the TS method to let me cut a profile on both sides. Left about 3/16" to fit in the grooves, as I remember. I could do the rest the same way of course, but I like the ogee shadow line and I like the idea of vertical cutting as it looks safer. 

   What I was hoping to hear was, " get bit xxxx-xx from XYZ router-bit dot com and you don't have to think about it antmore!".  What me lazy?

   Thanks all,

   Joe

    

1. 
   KayakGreg | May 04, 2005 08:11pm | #7

   CMT makes a 'junior' sized kit for thinner frames and panels. I think 7/16 is the recommended minimum thickness. Since you want to do both sides on thicker panels this may be your "XYZ" answer.

   Greg

1. 
   bladeburner | May 04, 2005 09:16pm | #8

   I'll look it up..........Thanks guys

   Joe