I attempted to veneer a 10″x6″ piece of 3/8in Finnply with bubinga veneer using Tightbond III glue and iron on method as recounted in a Fine Woodworking article. It works fine however I am encountering a very large amount of cracking which occurs right after the material is adhered and begins to cool. I allowed the glue on the veneer surface to cure overnight before ironing it on the substrate but it still cracked. I have not tried the method with any other material as yet. What am I doing wrong??
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Replies
berger,
It is possible that you are using too much heat. Also, mist the veneer with water, both sides shortly before ironing it down.
Rich
Don't ever learn anything new. Rather than give you satisfaction that you know more than you did, it will only confirm you know less than you thought by opening horizons to things of which you had never dreamt and which you now must explore.
Edit: Just realized you used Titebond III. I've never used that. Titebond and Titebond II have not given me any such problems. So it could be properties of the new glue that are giving you problems, but the above still applies.
Edited 2/4/2005 2:43 pm ET by Rich14
I had spritz some water on the face side of the veneer to keep it from curling too much. I got a small amount of scorching (moe like browning) so I will try lower heat settings. I used the TitebondIII because it is what I had and it is a PVA glue. If lower heat does not work I will try the Titebond I and II.
Thanks for the help.
berger,
Sorry I didn't think about this in the earlier post. The waterproof PVA glues require a much hotter iron to soften than standard variety. Although Titebond II hasn't given me a problem as far as a veneer cracking, it is really at the top of the heat range for this kind of thing (I think about 350 degrees, I'll have to find my reference) so use Titebond (I).
I have no idea what the softening temp of Titebond III is.
Rich
Not only is Titebond III a waterproof (or at least, very resistant) glue, it also has a lower operating temp range than I or II. Wonder if that complicates things even more?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
forestgirl,Well, it's an unknown quantity at this point. I really have no need to use version III. Original Titebond is really all that's necessary to use the "dry PVA" method of veneering. II worked several times for me on a very small demo piece. It softens much hotter than original Titebond, but I don't think I was aware of the difference when I used it because I was only covering a few square inches.Rich
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