Replies

1. 
   john_c2 | May 21, 2021 09:52am | #1

   Finish blades are fine for all work. 90 teeth is a lot though. If you were ripping thick hardwoods it would bog down in most saws. And the more you use a finish blade on rough work, the more it dulls and will leave a less finishy-finish. But that blade will cut 2x4s just fine.

   I use a good 40 tooth combination blade on pretty much everything. It leaves a great surface, and has no trouble cutting anything I ask it to.

2. 
   _mj_ | May 21, 2021 10:04am | #2

   +1. He can use it, but maybe should save it for when he needs a really clean cut and pick up a combo blade for regular use and breaking down material. On a 110 saw he might consider a thin kerf blade to make things a bit easier on the machine.

3. 
   rob_ss | May 21, 2021 09:05pm | #3

   I have a similar blade but will almost always change to a rip blade when doing ripping.
   That having been said, there is ripping, and there is ripping...

   For smaller thinner pieces there is probably no significant difference. I'm not going to bother changing the blade to cut one or two small pieces to width.

   The thicker the piece, the more teeth will be engaged and the longer the gullet full of dust will be engaged with the wood. You will also need to push more slowly otherwise the gullets will pack very tightly, jamming the blade, which will increase heating and the risk of burning.
   I still get some burning though on prone woods such as cherry even using a really good rip blade.

   This video explains the difference well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSQJ0247ifY

   For me a combo blade is a really good compromise and well worth the cash. I used (the same) one for 15 years without any problems. I do appreciate the difference now I have a better saw and a choice of blades between which it is easy to change. Until that can be afforded, he has only one blade so will have to make do. With a bit of clean-up no-one will be able to tell what kind of blade was used to make the cut afterwards, when all is said and done.

4. 
   EdWeber | May 27, 2021 10:48am | #4

   Not to sound harsh but there are different blade configurations for a reason. A 90 tooth blade is not recommended for "odd home projects and crafts". While it can be used it does have it's drawbacks and safety concerns as others have mentioned.
   For someone who "doesn’t use his table saw much" I would suggest a combination or general purpose blade for the situation you described. I also agree with looking at a thin kerf blade. These put less strain on the motor and work well on 110v saws, which are often under powered.

5. 
   esch5995 | May 27, 2021 04:03pm | #5

   I will add that teeth count is not the only thing that determines a blades suitability for a particular task. Blade diameter is important a 90 tooth 10" blade is entirely different than a 90 tooth 14" blade, then you have tooth profile, grind angle and hook or rake angle all play an important role in determining a blades niche. A 90 tooth 10" blade with a negative rake angle does a nice job cutting non-ferrous metals but a lousy job cutting wood.

   Overall I would never use a 90 tooth blade of any type to rip hard or soft woods, crosscut, plywood and laminates only, assuming it has a positive rake angle.

   If his saw is 110v its a 1½hp at most and I feel it would be dangerous to try and rip 2x4's with it. Soft woods are very resinous and 2x4's are notoriously bowed and twisted and tricky to rip under the best of circumstances that is a task that requires a dedicated rip blade that is designed to cut a generous kerf to help reduce the wood pinching the blade.

6. 
   gulfstar | May 27, 2021 04:35pm | #6

   I use general purpose blades because I made the mistake of buying them and use them in dirty wood to keep my good blades free of chipped carbides. In about all cutting real wood done on a table saw a pair of one nice cross cut and one rip blades covers all my needs.