I recently inherited a dead log from an english walnut tree. I started to remove the bark last night and found that some of the bark was rather soft and crumbly. I’m certainly not an expert in wood diseases or decay so I was hoping someone could give me some advice. Is this a disease infecting the tree or probably just rot/decay as the limb had been dead for quite a while. If the wood underneath is still “firm”, will I be able to use it or will it likely decay as well? Would a picture help in diagnosis?
I am planning on letting it cure outside after sealing the ends. Being in Arizona where we hit 115 yesterday (in the shade), I expect it to dry completely in about 45 minutes. 😉
Thanks for any advice!
Z
Edited 8/29/2005 12:59 pm ET by zombeerose
Replies
Anybody have thoughts?
Hi Z, I'm no expert but have some experience with downed logs and such. First of all, you said "log" in one place and "limb" in the other. I'm hoping you mean "log" as limbs aren't often worth messing with except for small turnings.
Assuming you're wanting to cut this into boards (and not cubes for turning), it'd be best IMHO to cut it immediately. I wouldn't worry too much about what kind of shape the bark is in, it's the inside that counts. I'd get it cut, stickered and stacked ASAP.
Once the wood drops below a certain moisture content, any mold/fungus organsims will stop growing. I'd be surprised if you have interior organisms in walnut, but like I said, I'm no expert. You've maybe heard of spalted maple? That's maple that has degraded from fungus and developed a striking pattern of light and dark. Click here. So, even when a wood has fungus, it can be dried and milled. I just don't think you'll see it in walnut.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Actually, I would hope the walnut is spalted. Spalting does, in fact, show up beautifully in walnut, I had the good fortune to work with some a few years ago. I used it for accent trim on a built-in bookcase. The fungi actually bleached the color out of the wood, creating beautiful black, white and brown patterns.
I'm actually going to try to make some more using the info in the article you posted from the usfs about making spalted wood.
"creating beautiful black, white and brown patterns. " Wow that's cool. Thanks for filling me in!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Thx FG for the feedback. To clarify, it is indeed a limb that is approx 7" in diameter. I realize I will not claim much lumber from it but I was hoping to make some small boxes out of it.Indeed I know what spalting is and have used spalted wood before. I have never seen spalting in walnut, however. As the other reader posted, it sounds quite interesting though.Sounds like I better get it sliced soon. Thx for the info! Z
This is a follow up question, hoping someone knowledgeable will help out. My impression was that the biggest disadvantage of wood from a limb was not the smaller size than wood from a trunk, but that it grew with a lot of force on it holding up the rest of the limb, so it is almost certain to have reaction wood that will move when cut. If that's the case, is there a preferred orientation to use for slicing it up, or other precautions?
I have claimed more than my share of lumber from limbs that any sensible sawyer would chuck in the firewood pile. I have found that the best way to get usable boards from a limb is to first know which way it was oriented in space while on the tree. Then make your cuts in an "up and down" orientation, in other words, cut the boards from the stick so that when you stack the boards back together and hold them in the original orientation, the cuts run perpendicular to the floor. This ensures most of your warpage is in the form of crook, along the length of the board, paralell to the board's face, which is more easily corrected through "straightlining", and because most of us don't have 10" wide jointers to correct bow. It also results in less waste overall. Just cut parts overwidth to allow movement, then trim to final dimension.
2 very important rules, though: Work only with short lengths when working with limb wood and NEVER use a table saw to make rip cuts. the board can crook and bind the rear of the blade, resulting in a nasty kickback. I learned that lesson the hard way, I was cutting a piece of 8/4 cherry limb on the table saw, and also broke another basic tablesaw rule by standing directly behind the workpiece. The perfectly rectangular hematoma I had just under my belly button for 3 weeks was enough of an object lesson for me, thanks.
Tony
"The perfectly rectangular hematoma I had just under my belly button.... " Better there than on your spleen! Glad you weren't seriously hurt, and kudos for emphasizing this safety precaution.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
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