Replies

1. 
   Vibart2 | Sep 30, 2002 07:43am | #1

   Shopfox is owned by the same people that own Grizzly. I have several Grizzly tools they work fine. Accept for the Shopfox mortiser which is way better I have one. Save your money & buy the same tool in green at Grizzly. The tech people at Grizzly say that the G1023SL cabinet saw is the same. I can't imagine the drill presses being that much different nor the 8' jointer either. At least not enough different to pay the extra it would cost to purchase one.

2. 
   JeffKurtz | Oct 01, 2002 02:15am | #2

   Ham,

   Bart is right; Shop Fox is owned by Grizzly.  However, perhaps with the exception Bart mentions, the machines are not the same.  From what I've seen, SF tends to be a bit heavier and show more attention to detail.  An added benefit is being able to purchase SF from a local dealer which is always a plus when it comes to service and support.

   All the feedback and reviews I've read about SF have been good, and their president started out in the business selling drill presses, so he should know what makes a good one.

   Jeff

1. 
   Vibart2 | Oct 01, 2002 08:03am | #3

   I got my information from one of the design engineers that work for both Grizzly & Shop Ffox. Knobs, color of paint, base cabinets such as the belt-disk sander which also has a 1/4 hp bigger motor & a 1 inch bigger disk not really worth about $200 more. The miter guage & hand wheels & color  on the cabinet saw are about all that is different than the G1023SL that is the base saw before the changes. I suspect that most of the other tools changes are the same. Enough changes to make them look different & wholesale to a retailer, just anouther way to make more money. Take a Chevy & change the front & back ends a little & the upholstry rename it Oldsmobile & make more money but the main sheet metal & drive train is the same.

   So you really have the same tool it just looks different & you pay more for it. Be my guest. As for me I'll keep my money in my pocket ready to purchase more tools with the money I save purchasing Grizzly.

3. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Oct 01, 2002 06:26pm | #4

   Shop Fox also offers a 2 year warranty.  I bought my shop fox cabinet saw from a local dealer, was able to get it delivered for the same price as if Grizzly shipped me a 1023SL with lift gate service. 

   I considered my saw to be DOA- excessive current draw on the motor- .  The situation was frustrating with the warranty dept sending out the motor and replacement wings on CF- then BK.  The dealer supported me, stripped his floor model, drove 1 1/2 hours and helped me install the new motor and wings. 

1. 
   JeffKurtz | Oct 01, 2002 10:24pm | #5

   Craig,

   That's why I like buying from my local dealer - service.  To me it's worth the extra $$ one might spend over buying it mail order.  (Actually, I got my cabinet saw from my dealer for less than what Amazon wanted for it.)

   Jeff

   Edited 10/1/2002 4:23:48 PM ET by Jeff K

2. 
   LeeEschen | Oct 02, 2002 06:26am | #8

   What is your opinion of the Shop Fox tablesaw now that you've got it working properly? I am considering it for purchase.

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Oct 03, 2002 02:19am | #9

   Lee,

   So far it runs rings around my Craftsman contractor's saw.  I haven't fine tuned the fence or table the way it should be, as I am still waiting to see if they are sending me a new table top.  the CF forwarder called last week wanting to know when they could delivery my original parts replacements.  The blade is about .004" out of paralell with the miter slots, acceptable for what I am working on now, and I get a slight 'feathering' from my fence on rips ( this is adjustable, I just haven't taken the time to correct it). 

   The saw has plenty of power, runs fairly smoothly, cuts accurately, but I will be replacing the standard belts with link belts when time permits. 

   The one thing that I don't like about the design of the saw is the dust collection port.  It is on the left side under the motor cover.  The plate inside slopes to the left down to the port.  I would rather it be on the right side, under the table.  This is minor, and I will be working on this as well(either modifying the saw or coming up with a way to reduct my DC piping).   Without zero clearnace inserts on the throat plate, the fine strips trimmed off of stock get caught up on the dust port-blocking air flow, so plan on making or investing in some zero clearance inserts. 

   The blade guard is adequate, notheing to brag about, but I will probably be upgrading this to an excaliber over arm type in the future. 

   For the money, the saw is hard to beat.  I was going to purchase a unisaw, but with the pricing structure of Delta, and my space not allowing a 7' wide saw, I chose this one instead so I can upgrade to a 52" fence economically later when space permits.  In the begining I was having my doubts, but the saw is proving itself.

   I hope this helps.

   Craig

1. 
   LeeEschen | Oct 03, 2002 10:21am | #10

   Craig: So far it runs rings around my Craftsman contractor's saw.

   That's what I would be replacing also, a very old one at that. It sounds like you will be getting a replacement table. What was wrong with the original?

   Craig: The saw has plenty of power, runs fairly smoothly, cuts accurately, but I will be replacing the standard belts with link belts when time permits.

   I'm glad to hear all of that. The link belts will likely smooth it out the rest of the way. I would intend to do the same. Have you experimented with belt tension in the meantime?

   Craig: The one thing that I don't like about the design of the saw is the dust collection port. . . . Without zero clearnace inserts on the throat plate, the fine strips trimmed off of stock get caught up on the dust port-blocking air flow, so plan on making or investing in some zero clearance inserts.

   The dust collection port should be fairly easy to change. I'll check it out before purchase. I make my own ZC inserts from 1/4" ply using the original steel insert as a pattern against a flush trim bit or a pattern cutting bit in the router table. A piloted rabbeting bit made the rim thinner for the Craftsman but I think the SF will use a full thickness insert. Exact machining should make it accurately flush with the table surface, but a full thickness insert could easily have leveling screws added.

   Craig: The blade guard is adequate, notheing to brag about, but I will probably be upgrading this to an excaliber over arm type in the future.

   You might think I'm crazy, but I have never used a guard. Nor have I ever experienced a kickback, but then I work with a very deliberate care. My Craftsman was bought used without a splitter or a guard. After reading the thread on guards, I'm considering a shop made wooden splitter mounted into the insert. I'm also considering using "Board Buddies," also carried by Woodstock outlets.

   Craig: For the money, the saw is hard to beat. . . . In the begining I was having my doubts, but the saw is proving itself.

   Good! Good! That helps to set my mind ease about my likely future choice. My dealer has offered a tradeout on the longer rails for only $20 difference. My choice here is obvious, since I have the room for them.

   Craig: I hope this helps.

   It most certainly does and I thank you profusely. Please keep us informed as you gain further experience with this tablesaw.

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Oct 03, 2002 06:40pm | #11

   My original table dips on the lower left front corner about .030" and has a gouge in the left rear corner ( I'm guessing it's from the factory as there was no signs of damage to the container or plastic covering the top).  I dressed up the gouge with emery cloth and sandpaper, so it really isn't affecting anything. 

   This made aligning the left wing difficult, but was do-able.  I have noticed that the slope tends to affect my cuts of wide materials as the drop at the end of the wing is exaggerated. 

   As far as your not using a splitter or blade guard, I have experienced kickback and it is rather unpleasant.  No permanent scars, except my pride.  Needless to say, I cannot recommend not using a blade guard/spliitter.  Mine is on whenever I can use it. 

   Good luck with your saw.  I hope you get a great deal on it from a good dealer. 

   Craig

4. 
   AlanMikkelsen | Oct 02, 2002 12:48am | #6

   I have the Shop Fox oscillating drill press and the Shop Fox mortiser.  The mostiser is a great machine.  The drill press is ok, also, but I'm a little underwhelmed by the oscillating spindle for sanding.  It's very easy to stop the oscillating if you push the slighest bit too hard.  I still wish for a full featured spindle sander. 

1. 
   JeffKurtz | Oct 02, 2002 03:07am | #7

   Alan,

   I bought a Jet oscillating spindle sander a few months ago (the bench top model) and it does a great job.  Nice heavy table and slow rpm's.  Also, one less thing to fiddle with when I'm making something.  These adapter tools such as spindle sanders and mortisers for the drill press work all right, but one spends more time on set up than actual work time.  Beside that, I think my drill press is the most used tool in my shop and I like to be able to just chuck a bit in it whenever I need to without having to spend five minutes un-converting it from whatever I was last using it for.

   Jeff