Replies

1. 
   SirScottyVokey | Sep 26, 2019 09:23am | #1

   All depends on the belt sander I suppose, cant say for sure. If you already have the belt sander, give it a try. Usually the “flat” part of a belt sander is not a large area. If its something you are going to have to go out and buy, I would go a different route. I would get some 3/4” MDF and double it up to get 1.5” thick piece that’s at least 18” long. Then glue down with some spray adhesive a long roll of sandpaper. MDF is pretty dang flat to get the initial flattening done on a chisel of plane blade. Another route is to find some 1/4’ plate glass or an off cut of a solid surface countertop. (You can find small offcuts of this where they cut out for a drop in sink fairly easily and cheaply). This is a more long term solution where you can spray down some sandpaper, and scrap it off when its all used up. Really useful if in the future you want to rehab some older tools as well. Best of luck to you!

2. 
   homedoer | Sep 26, 2019 09:41am | #2

   I have used my stationary belt sander for the first grind of old chisels in bad shape. I made a jig that spans the belt and rests on the edges. The jig can hold the chisel at the correct angle and quickly take down an old rough or badly angled edge to something close. Care must be taken to keep things cool and of course its not a finished edge but it certainly beats trying to get that first angle by hand.

3. 
   Highdesertwoodworker | Sep 26, 2019 02:14pm | #3

   I watched a video in which a belt narrower than the designation of the belt sander is used, with the sander running. A sky type jig used so that only the middle is used.

   I have ordered 2x36 belt for my 4x36 sander, 600 grit for this purpose.

   But I want coarser grade for hand sanding with the machine off, with 4x36 belts I already have. I will cut one 120 grit along the long side into 2x36, rather than cutting it open to glue on a flat surface.