Replies

1. 
   RickL | Nov 05, 2004 04:35pm | #1

   Go to http://www.owwm.com

    

1. 
   vern | Nov 06, 2004 05:55am | #4

   I WENT TO THAT SITE AND PRINTED 4 PAGES ABOUT THEIR JOINTERS THE jI36 AND j138, --THE LIST PRICE (LESS MOTOR ,SWITCH,) 305.00 DOLLARS THANKSmaking sawdust

2. 
   JohnWW | Nov 05, 2004 07:45pm | #2

   This is a Yates-American made machine and is a classic piece of old cast iron that ought to perform very well if it hasn't been badly treated. 

   As to the price, there is no formal market setting prices for machinery this old, but I would guess that if the machine is in good shape a knowledgable seller would ask at least $500 for the machine.  Often however, these old machines can often be bought for far less if you are in the right place at the right time when someone is cleaning out a barn.  If you are really lucky, they'll pay you to haul it away.

   Condition of course is everything in a machine this old, but you also need to determine if it is 3 phase, which will require a new motor or a phase converter if you don't have 3 phase power in your shop.  If the motor is a direct drive, a phase converter will probably be your only option but for a few hundred dollars a converter would be a good investment if you can get the machine at a low price.

   John W.

3. 
   JeffHeath | Nov 05, 2004 09:55pm | #3

   Vern:  I have several old american cast iron woodworking machines in my shop.  My jointer, table saw, and band saw are all restored to classical perfection, and I have to tell you that after having used many of the new stuff they are selling today, none of it can compete with the older tools.  "They just don't build em like they used to".  If you have the room in your shop, you won't be dissappointed with your decision.  3 phase motors are easily handled with a phase converter, or you can often find a single phase replacement for a reasonable amount of $$, if you are a little patient.  I bought a 30 hp converter for $700.00, and it was only a year old.  It will start any 3 phase motor up to 15 hp, which is larger than anything I've got.  I hope to one day sell all of my Jet and Powermatic (new Taiwan stuff) tools, and continue to replace them with Oliver, Northfield, Tannewitz, etc...   One at a time, of course.  One last note, for me personally, I've learned to stay away from babbitt bearings, unless the tool can be converted to a newer bearing style, for the cutter head.  That's just me, though, some guys don't mind.

   JC

1. 
   vern | Nov 06, 2004 06:13am | #5

   JC-- according to the spec sheet -this baby has lubricated -for-life bearings and has the shear cutting feature-- depends on what he is asking-- the new powermatic 8" with the eccentric cam adjustmwent set up-- more green stamps but I 've been down the road with the gibbed dovetail way of adjusting the tables-- reallly don't want another one thanks for your inputmaking sawdust

1. 
   JohnWW | Nov 06, 2004 05:48pm | #6

   Vern,

   Sliding dovetail ways, properly set up, work just as well as the linkage supported tables, several centuries of use would confirm their utility.  In my experience, few woodworkers know how to properly adjust a dovetail way, and therefore condemn them without good reason. 

   Once set up properly, a dovetail way will give many years of accurate work and can be readjusted quickly for wear with just a couple of hand tools.  By comparison, linkage tables if they do wear or get knocked out of line are more difficult to realign and often times require a special tool, or tools, to do the job.

   John W. 

   Edited 11/6/2004 11:13 am ET by JohnW

1. 
   vern | Nov 07, 2004 04:44pm | #7

   you are more than likely right but my 6"

   Delta has the fence locking and angle locking out on the infeed end and for the life of me that extra weight contributed to an ongoing problem with keeping the infeed table lined up -- in other words, every time you adjusted the infeed table you had to lift an extra weight -- I think they should recall these models thanks for the inputmaking sawdust