jack
Discussion Forum
The Minimax jointer-planer combos are shipped with chrome tersa knives, the least expensive to replace. They also sell cobalt and high speed steel, in that order of cost. Can anyone comment on the difference in blade durability and finish they produce? The Hammer apparently uses the cobalt.
I’m trying to justify the Minimax over the Hammer. I like the added power, the magnetic switch, and the fence design, the wee-bit longer table. They want extra $ for the euro-style guard, however, which I THINK I would like…
Also, I never see anything on the XSD-310 j/p combo that Laguna sells. It’s about in the range of the Hammer, price-wise. Comments to all the above?
thanks,
jack
jack
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Replies
The MiniMax machined got good reviews in FineWoodworking magazine. I did not know they came w/chrome knives.
I have a knock-off of the Robland XSD-310 marketed/sold by Andreou Machinery. This machine appears to be a different-colored knockoff of the Rojek machines, after I compared photos of each. This machine is very similar to the Robland machine in features, appearance and size. But it does have the conventional knife system, which are set just like a normal jointer. These are good, affordable machines.
But I would have to give the nod to the MiniMax machine if I were in the market again. You got to love quick-change knives, especially if you work with reclaimed lumber.
I own a Hammer 310. The 310 version fence mount is at the end of the infeed, and the fence itself cants so it flexes a little. This is not a big issue, I put a mag switch on when working larger stock and that seems to work. Their 410 version mounts in the center and is much stiffer as I understand. The US style guard would be nice. I still have not totally got used to the Euro style. The knives do come in diff grades, but are not the same as the Tersa. Very thin throw away style (i recall 2mm). They are easy to change as they have index holes (minutes). I am not totally convinced the thin blades hold the sharp edge as long as my older jointer did, but you can change over to traditional blades if you dont mind the time changing. Does the Minimax have a digital gauge option? I finally received my new handle and mounted the gauge. That thing is handy as heck, under $200, and very accurate. I stopped using the digital calipers. It is a very simple device, calibrated to the rotations of the handle (crafty europeans). Comes in metric or imperial.
Jack,
I have had both the Felder full combo and Minimax J/P combo (16 inch versions). As far as quality of cut, they are both excellent and both of them have zero snipe. Performance wise, IMO they are indistinguishable. Even though there are a few differences, there is not much to dislike about either of these machines and I think it boils down to personal preference. The Felder came with the HSS blades (I think they are M2) and lasted a little over 2 years before I turned them over to use the other edge. The Minimax came with the chrome knives and after 3 weeks use, I am ready to turn them over but I was planing Makore which is real tough on knives. I just got a set of the M42 Tersa knives but haven't used them.
It takes me about 10 minutes to change the knives out on the Felder 4 knife cutterhead and it takes about 2 minutes to do the same with the Tersa cutterhead. This is an inconsequential difference in time for most hobby shops. The reason I went with the Tersa cutterhead is a much broader selection of knives. With the Felder cutterhead, your choices are chrome and HSS. With the Tersa cutterhead, your choices are chrome, HSS, M42 (cobalt HSS), and carbide. I don't believe you can get the Tersa cutterhead on the Hammer machine but if you get the Felder, it is an option.
Cut quality with the chrome vs. the HSS is comparible with the difference being longevity of the edge. What you choose large depends on what woods you work with. Cost for the HSS Tersa knives are about 20% higher than the cost of the equivalent Felder knives. The cost differences using HSS as the reference for the Tersa choices are approximately:
Hope this helps,
Steve
I have the MM 12" - think it's great. My choice was, in large part, dictated by the fact the exhaust duct exits the same direct for both jointing and planer.I have one "complaint" which perhaps you and BOBARUIE (sorry about spelling) can answer: occasionally I get 'feed roller' marks on a planed piece. Tuning is very subtle so that it feeds but does not mark. Any suggestions?Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Hey Frosty,
Not sure about the FS30, but my FS41E has a serrated steel infeed roller, this roller grips the wood to feed it into the planer. Actually most non-bench top planers feed wood this way, the bench top machines typically have rubber infeed rollers. So there is a finite minimum cut that one must make on the final pass through the planer to remove these infeed roller marks. On my machine ~ 1/32 of an inch (or .03 on my digital counter) is the minimum cut that I can take, that properly removes the infeed roller marks..
Hope this helps.
Edited 12/8/2007 9:10 am ET by BOBABEUI
That is what I've been doing but I wasn't sure if there was a way to eliminate them altogether. Now that I have the 12" jointer it certainly is easy to lust for 16". - or 20"?Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
I believe that there are adjustment socket head screws that adjust the infeed roller pressure on the top of the planer head (at least there are on the FS41E), might want to ask MM where your adjust is on the FS30. You can adjust the pressure to be less, but there is a fine line between being able to feed wood reliably and not being able to feed wood. On my machine, like I said 1/32 removes the mark reliably, ~1/40 (.02) less so..
Frosty,
BOBABUIE has it right in post number 7. On all the planers I have ever used, if you don't take off a minimum cut you can see infeed marks assuming you have a serrated infeed roller. If the wood is soft, it is more prone to this. I target taking off a minimum of 0.5mm and that has always taken care of the problem for me.
Steve
Thanks to both of you. I have solved the problem with an adjustment of those screws and a final, VERY fine cut - but was curious if this was the necessary procedure. It;s a great machine.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Jack,
You were asking about different types of steel for the Tersa knives..
I can safely tell you the Chrome knives are useless, unless you work softwoods exclusivly, working common hardwood like Walnut, Cherry and Poplar turns them into junk in no time.
The HSS are much, much better, but quite frankly I think the best knive to buy are the M42 (Cobalt?) knives. They are frightenly sharp, produce a great finish and seem to last much better than Chrome or the HSS.
I guess what I am saying is Hammer is making a good choice by using the M42's as standard equipment, as they work great on common hard and soft woods.
PS. I own a Minimax J/P combo unit, if you buy a MM make sure they throw in a set of M42 knives..
Good Luck
I got my MM 12" 6 months ago. Post #36974.1 is my "review with pictures.
Frosty
"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
How soon until you need to decide? I recently went through the same thing, and ended up with the hammer. It is here, but I just got it uncrated. Still have to clean it and get a plug on it, but two other projects first. Probably get it done by the 15th. I couldn't add much to the existing discussion on the knives, but I had pretty much the same thoughts:
"I'm trying to justify the Minimax over the Hammer."
By the way, are you looking at the 12" or the 16"?
Going with the 12inch and hoping not to regret it later. I've decided to go with the MM, and should have it next week (if I can get myself to pull the trigger on it).
I doubt you would go with the MM and regret not buying the hammer, or vice versa. Now regretting not getting the 16"... I hope neither of us ends up there!
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