Replies

1. 
   jonsherryl | Jan 18, 2004 09:04pm | #1

   Rog, at a buck-a-pop, you got a real steal on that jatoba. That works out to only $1.50 per board foot...So, quit moaning and get on with it. :O)

   Actually, the jatoba would be a better species than cherry for bench jaws. It's much harder and stronger than cherry. It's also a very nice cabinetwood, both in terms of appearance and also strength properies. You'll have to put some real sweat equity into the project, if the design involves a lot of hand tool detail, but otherwise its working characteristics are very good. It's moderately stable (lower than average T/R ratio and about the same volumetric shrinkage as black walnut.) Also, it has outstanding decay resistance, if you want to consider using it in an exterior application.  

2. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 18, 2004 10:08pm | #2

   You want to sell any of it?  I could use about 9 pieces.  That'd make a nice square bundle.  I get lots of orders for Jatoba handles and knobs.

   Or, if you need some plane handles take it in trade??

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

3. 
   Colinsdad | Jan 19, 2004 07:07pm | #3

   You got some of the low down on Jatoba. It is a very nice wood with some wonderful color and grain. It works pretty well, although it will splinter along edges if you're not careful, and finished nicely. This is one of a pair of tables made with Jatoba. The finish is BLO/MS mixed 1:1, blonde shellac and waterlox satin.

   
1. 
   rog | Jan 19, 2004 08:35pm | #4

   Thanks for the picture. Nice table! I would have to do a lot of laminating to get my 2 by 2's into that top.

   Roger

2. 
   rog | Jan 19, 2004 08:40pm | #5

   Hi

   Could you please provide more info about the finish. I am a beginner and can only guess what that means. Nice looking finish. That is where I always screw up. I use stuff out of a can and don't really know what I am doing. If you could briefly detail the process for me it would be of great assistance.

   Thanks

   Roger

1. 
   Colinsdad | Jan 21, 2004 12:37am | #6

   I am by no means a finishing expert and sought a lot of advice in the process.  The initial 2 coats were Boiled Linseed Oil thinned 50%/50% with Mineral Spirits. The BLO highlights the grain and figure.  I put two coats on, the second was wet sanded with 320 grist wet/dry paper. Wet sanding helped fill the grain a bit.  The blonde shellac both sealed the oil coat and appeared to lighten the color a little bit - it was applied mostly as a sealer coat, though.  It was brush applied, then sanded. Final coats were Waterlox Satin, applied with a foam brush, sanded between coats. The Waterlox was very easy to use, self-leveled quite well. It was sanded between coats with synthetic steel wool (0000 equivalent).

   Hope that answers your questions!

1. 
   rog | Jan 21, 2004 03:28am | #7

   Colinsdad:

   Thanks for the info. I will print this off and keep it in my shop for when I make one of these tables. I  just finished putting the first coat of tung oil on the base of my bench. A few more coats and then I will be ready to start leveling the top.

   Thanks

   Roger

1. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 21, 2004 06:22pm | #8

   I guess that's a NO on selling any of it?  (I have to go buy some today - just ran out)

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood