Jessem sliding table on a contractor saw
This may be one of those bone headed ideas but then again maybe not. I replaced my old craftsman contractor saw with a General 350 and I am very glad I did. It is dead on accurate, lots of power. Does everything you would expect a full cabinet saw to do. I was reading Knots about the JessEm sliding table for table saws. Sounded interesting so I down loaded the manual and looked at what it would take to install the JessEm on my General. I would have to cut the very long fence that I paid a premium for. I might be able to move it but I don’t think the fence would line up correctly. Either way I don’t like the idea of messing with the fence because it works so well. The fence support bar extends almost two feet to the left of the blade and for some cuts it is better to have the fence on the left. Also I really like the very large table on the General.
Then I read about shops setting one saw up for ripping and another for cross cut and sharing an out feed table to save space. I started eyeing the old Craftsman sitting in the corner. Two of the things I didn’t like about the old saw (not the only things) were the fence and the small stamped sheet metal tables. Setting up that saw as a dedicated crosscut I would remove the fence and replace the side tables. One side table would be replaced with the JessEm and the other with the out feed table. The two issues left to think about are space (always a problem) and the JessEm Manual states not to use the sliding table on a contractors saw. I know you guys can’t help with the space issue but I am wondering if anyone is using the JessEm sliding table on a contractors saw and how it is working for them. The Craftsman has a cast iron top so I am sure it would support the weight of the JessEm sliding table so I am not sure what the issue would be using it on a contractors style saw.
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Thanks for your thoughts on this.
Bob T.
Edited 10/18/2007 4:39 pm ET by Y1RET
Replies
I took a quick look at the Jessem site. Which says; " Designed to replace the left extension wing on most American style cabinet saws and contractor saws with cast iron table tops.".
So, I think it should work, provided you have a cast iron top that is 27-inches deep.
My biggest concern would be the potential for tipping, but that could be easily overcome.
I'm using the Mast R Slide on my Ridgid contractor and there's no real issue of tipping. If you were to cross cut a large or heavy piece you'd want to support the piece with an auxiliary table or stand anyway.
If your Craftsman is a right tilt it would make it an even better candidate to mount the slider on. While your saw may have a crummy fence it can still be used as a stop for repetitive cuts so hold on to it.
Vic
While your saw may have a crummy fence it can still be used as a stop..OK just me BUT using your fence for a 'stop' can lead to some serious kickback especially for longer sticks.I would suggest a auxiliary stop block clamped to your fence. As in it leaves a large gap between the fence and the end of the stick as you move off the reference stop block and begin the crosscut.Sorry but I had to. Been there did that and IT HURTS ALOT!Sort of changing this post but I have always wondered why folks do not set up another saw just for using dado blade cuts.I do not have the room but thinks this would be ideal and leaves you main saw for 'standard' cuts..Just a thought I had.
Edited 10/19/2007 11:32 am by WillGeorge
Well of course Will. I shouldn't have assumed that everybody reading my post would be using a stop block affixed to the fence behind the blade or by sliding the fence forward if so equipped. My bad.Vic
<<Then I read about shops setting one saw up for ripping and another for cross cut and sharing an out feed table to save space.>>
Y1RET,
If you have the space, this is a wonderful arrangement. I worked breifly in a shop set up this way and it makes things so much easier. I wish I had the room to do it in my shop.
Mike
I just recently installed a JessEm slide on my contractors tables saw and find it works very well. I have no issues with the table saw tipping. Set up went fine,I just followed the manual and was guided through the installation with out any difficulty.
What kind of contractors saw? I have a Delta about 25 years old. Just curious if anyone has attempted it on a saw like mine.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob, if your saw table is cast iron, ~27" front to back - it should work. The Mast R Slide has an assortment of holes along the mount. Worst case you would need to drill a hole or two in the edge of your table.
polarsea1,
Yes it's 27" deep, front to back. I'm kinda on the fence (no pun intended) about it though. Cutting thick stock is a problem as the saw's motor is rather small. An upgrade is not that far into the future methinks; either bigger motor (probably not) or Unisaw and/or Powermatic (2000?).
Thanks for the help.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Using the right blade will make that saw very livable. There's a 10" 10 tooth blade used in the pallet industry that will allow you to cut 8/4 stock with no problem and the finish isn't bad either plus most folks sand or joint the edge anyway. I've turned many woodworkwers onto this blade when I was a tech for a dealer and saved folks hundreds of dollars and most kept their contractor saws.
Rick,
Most appreciative of the info. I'll have to check into that. Any preferred brand?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I just ask my saw sharpening service for what they have available. I deal with many sources for tooling. It's not real critical on brands for many tooling. Most folks can't tell the difference anyway, especially for the hobby woodworker and small commercial shops.
Don,
Thanks for the pics. I have attached them to this reply so everyone can see.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
You surely never use that saw! No dust! LOL..Sure wish that and my saw had BOTH a right tilt AND a left tilt!I have the Jessem and my Incra Miter Express.. Damn,, if only thr' blade tilted both ways.. I'd have it made!
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