Jet 10JF / Biesemeyer Fence Problems
Hello all! This is my first actual post so please be kind! I have been a frequent visitor for awhile now and really love the wealth of information that everyone provides. It has helped me tremendously in my woodworking!
So here is the problem I am hoping someone can help with:
*Jet 10JF Contrantor Table Saw
*Recently upgraded with a Bies 40″ Home Shop fence.
*Using a Dial Indicator and A Master Plate.
It all started out when I replaced my rip fence and upgraded to a bies. I started noticing some major teeth marks on the wood. So I started from the begining and checked the arbor, blade parelle to the mitre slot, fence parelle to miter slot/blade.
The arbor looks just fine (.002). What I noticed at first was that the blade was not parallel to the mitre slot. I thought no biggy, I would adjust the trunnions to get things back in shape. Adjusted the trunions and got things within .002. Now what I noticed was when I raise the blade and keep positive pressure on the lifting mech it stays pretty true. If I lower the mech the blade seem to twist a kicking it out to .005/.008.
I have been in contact with Jet several times and they are kinda puzzled and still haven’t got a straight awnser on how to move forward.
Now for the fence. I have been reading alot of information that the fence should be dead on or tailed out maybe .003 tops. I can’t seem to get a good cut unless the my fence is tailed out to almost .010 – .012.
When I rip a board, I can see that the board is not in contact with the last 3-4″ the fence. I belive that this is not correct from what I have read.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Scott
Replies
I do not have a Jet or a Bessie! But.. Many things can cause it..
If the fence is adjusted as the Mfg. Recommends.. I do not think it is the fence.... I have use a fence parallel and toe-out up to a 1/16 inch without problems..
Splitter out of line with the blade? I found that the splitter can really make or break a good cut..
Any possibility the blade was damaged somehow?? Try another if you have one..
I'm sure you will get a lot of thoughts from folks smareter? than this old man!
Edited 10/17/2005 7:22 pm by WillGeorge
srlevy,
Check to see if your fense is flat(vertically and horizontally)...it may need shiming or replacement..or at the very least to be cursed. I often wonder if dust can get trapped behind the fense due to vibration and the loosening of screws, etc.
Redarding the TS alignment problems, the tie bars that connect the front and rear trunnions may be loose.
Morning Kent,
I went through things again last night and checked the tie bars. Everything seems to be tight.
I also redialed the rip fence and when I slide the master gauge down the length of the fence, it fluctuates from .003 positive to .003 negative then back to 0. With doing some preliminary ripping 3/4 stock (Red Oak), the rip looks good and smooth. I am getting some burning though. The blade I am using is a Forrest WWII combination blade.
I am gong to need to buy some more wood tonight to continue my testing. On another note, I decided to check the mitre slot parallel to the blade again by using my blade instead of the mater plate. When checking a tooth from the front to the back, it's simply .002 - which is more then acceptable. I raised and lowered the blade and it seems to be the same. I am now thinking that master plate is throwing things out a bit.
I will keep playing this evening and let you know what I come up with.
Thanks much for your help!
Scott
srlevy,
A couple of thoughts. First, throw a 3-4'straight edge against the blade..and measure to the miter..it will help see any variation better.
Second, what size wood and how many teeth in the blade. Sometimes burning can be avoided by raising the blade up all the way so that there is less teeth time against the stock...cutting down on heat buildup.
Thanks BG!
I will try the straight edge later tonight and see what I end up with. Just to clarify, the entire piece (Red Oak) that I am ripping (38") or is not burning enitre length. Maybe a 4" section from the last the 5-7 inches from the tailing edge of the board.
The blade that I am utilizing is WWII 40T combination blade thats about 2 months old.
Take care!
I'm assuming that you drilled the table casting to mount the fence rails. If you didn't have to then forget this post.
Some of these saws had some pretty poor castings. They looked allright on the outside but inside they were stressed for some reason. It could be that when you drilled the holes for the not so universal mounting rails that you hit just the right spot.
In my case the table was fine the night before but the next day it was warped. I didn't think anything of it when I raised the blade and felt a little resistance that I didn't remember before. Eventually the rear trunion cracked and I would have had to replace both the table and the trunion so I just replaced the entire saw instead.
Jet knows about the problem but its not their problem because the saw was just fine until you modified it. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
Hey WhatKnot,
When I mounted the new fence, I simply had to enlarge the existing holes a bit and everythinhg went on fine. I have had this fence on for 2 months or so trying to remedy the cituation. Spoke with Jet again this morning and they still had no ideas regarding the saw itself. He could not grasp that if there was possitive pressure upward on the blade, that things stayed true.
I threw the dial indicator in the left miter slot again and check a tooth in the back and then rotated forward. I was getting about .002. Happy!
I decided to leave the dial inicator touching the blade and lowered the blade about 1/4". It through things out immediately to .007-.008. Re-ran the test and it was still .007-.008 So then I turned the hand crank a hair to get some positive upward pressure and re-ran the testing. Things went right back to .002. This I can live with.
Regarding the straight edge along side the blade and measuring over the mitre slot, I could see none or if any change with the measurements.
I also raised the blade higher and that eliminated the burn marks.
Started tweaking the fence again as parallel as possible Started running some wood through 3/4" red oak - 56" long. What I have come to believe is if the fence is not toed out, the rip looks terrible, alot of blade marks and it's not to smooth. So with the fence toed out, I am getting some pretty descent results. The acutual ripped piece looks good. The offcut piece has some minor blade marks, meaning swirls from the blade on it down the entire length. Is this somewhat normal?
My hands are up in the air at this point.
"Is that normal" ... Yes, don't worry, be happy... As for the saw, now that I understand what you're doing to apply upward pressure, I realize that you were expecting the saw to stay true without using the proper procedured for raising a saw blade. I was taught to raise the blade higher than I wanted then drop slightly below and come back up to my final height. Kind of a right, left, right thing. It was something my dad told me to do and he's never been wrong, (in my world anyway). Theres PROBABLY nothing wrong with your saw.
Thanks WhatKNot,
I have a project coming up shortly and with that I will see how things turn out!
Once again, I appreciate all your help!
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