Replies

1. 
   Knotscott | Dec 26, 2005 10:26pm | #1

   Is this a contractor saw? If so, the alignment can be a bit of a PITA, but is doable, and has been done by many of us. There are many articles in books and around the internet to step you through this process. Basically, you'll want the whole trunnion carriage to rotate enough to align the blade parallel to the miter slot. Determine which bolt to pivot "around" and loosen that bold only slightly. Loosen the other 3 bolts enough to allow the trunnion to move, but be careful not to loosen so much that the entire carriage falls down. Tap it into place with a 2x4 or rubber hammer and check the alignment...this process could require several attempts. Be aware that the alignment can move while retightening the bolts. I typically slightly snug all the bolts before final tightening.

   There's a $20 device called PALS available from In-line Industries and Woodcraft that helps hold the alignment in place and makes future alignment alot easier....good investment IMO.

1. 
   sailalex | Dec 26, 2005 11:44pm | #2

   Thanks , Scotty. It is a table saw , not contractors saw. The trunion assembly is bolted to the table itself which if I read it right causes the blade,arbor,trunnions to all move together with the table. I took the 4 bolts holding the table to the frame and then realized the trunions were also bolted to the top. I must be missing something.

1. 
   Knotscott | Dec 27, 2005 12:11am | #3

   There are two main methods of mounting the trunnions that are used in most cast iron saws. They're either a contractor saw type mount that bolts to the table top, or they're cabinet mounted trunnions that mounts to the cabinet walls. The latter are usually found on a 3hp+ cabinet saw and are much easier to adjust. If they're cabinet mounted, you just loosen all four bolts that hold the top to the cabinet...NOT the trunnion bolts, then nudge the entire top assembly until the blade is aligned with the miter slots.

1. 
   Knotscott | Dec 27, 2005 02:18am | #4

   I just stumbled across this link with video...I haven't tried it, but it looked interesting...http://www.ts-aligner.com/tablesaw.htm

2. 
   sailalex | Dec 27, 2005 03:25pm | #5

   Thanks , I will view the video. My saw is the worst one , I guess, in that the trunions are bolted to the tabletop. With that setup, I don't see that there are any adjustments to make. A friend is coming over today to look at it ; maybe I am missing something. Thanks again.

1. 
   John_D | Dec 28, 2005 12:15am | #7

   As someone else pointed out, you sure can align your saw.  It's a little harder, but well worth the effort.  If you're willing to buy a book, I'd recommend Kelly Mehler's The Table Saw Book.  He's got step-by-step instructions for aligning your saw, with pictures.

   You can get tons of good work from your saw, with just a little effort it can be easier, safer and accurate.My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

2. 
   highfigh | Dec 28, 2005 12:24am | #8

   Since your trunnions are bolted to the top, yours won't be very hard to adjust. Loosen the bolts till the lock washers release. Find out which way the top needs to move in order to align it, then tap the top so it moves to where you want it. I used a dead-blow mallet for this. Once the miter slots are parallel to the blade, snug the bolts, check for parallel, tighten them more, re-check until tight. Re-check when the bolts are tight.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   forestgirl | Dec 27, 2005 08:10pm | #6

   "Thanks , Scotty. It is a table saw , not contractors saw."  Most of us call both contractors saws and your saw "table saws."  Yours we would call a cabinet saw.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   sailalex | Dec 28, 2005 01:00am | #9

   Thanks for all the input.BTW,  I learned that mine is indeed a "contractors saw" in that everything is bolted to the top as opposed to the trunions and top being separately bolted to the cabinet.

1. 
   highfigh | Dec 28, 2005 04:03am | #10

   So you're saying that the top could be removed and everything else would stay there, right? Perfect! Just loosen the bolts for the top and adjust it carefully. If it's not that way, look for a sub-assembly and see if it can be adjusted.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 28, 2005 05:32am | #11

   Perfect! Just loosen the bolts for the top and adjust it carefully...Ditto.. AND if you can remove the table top.. (I would...) Sand/file any ridges made by the lock washers..... Although I do not know how a Jet is made..Do NOT go wild on getting rid of the ridges if you have them...
   As a metal worker.. I would get new washers/lock washers.. Just me..
   BUT small adjustments are hard to do with old bent/whatever hardware..Just my opinion...

1. 
   highfigh | Dec 28, 2005 05:43am | #12

   I would be tempted to use the bolts with the serrated shoulder for this, like those on Japanese cars. I had a 1981 RX-7 and when I would check various bolts for tightness, nothing needed snugging up. Also, I don't know how bad any ridges will be it it's steel or cast iron. An aluminum table like the mid-1970's Delta direct drive TS (POS) was easy to gouge and put ridges on.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   sailalex | Dec 28, 2005 03:12pm | #13

   Actually, the top and trunion assembly are all bolted to the top. I called Jet and they emailed me instructions which is essentially what I received here and that is to loosen the trunion bolts and adjust the whole assemblt to the top.

   Thanks for all the help; I will get it right yet.

1. 
   forestgirl | Dec 28, 2005 06:56pm | #14

   There is a "worse case scenario" that hasn't been mentioned here yet, just want to give you a heads-up on it.  That is:  The big parallel rods between the trunnions (senior moment, can't remember what they're called) get out of whack and the assembly ends up being a parallelogram instead of a rectangle.  If that happens, you're gonna have your work cut out for you.  So be careful not to loosen the trunnion bolts too much! 

   IIRC, the tip that this *#$%& thing has happened is when you think you have the blade parallel to the miter slot, but when you tilt the blade to 45*, suddenly there's a huge difference.  It's really disgusting, so I hope it doesn't happen to you.  I was rescued by a repair guy out at Edensaw who took mine under his wing and fixed it for a reasonable price.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)