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I am working on a jewelry box design that will incorporate a short squatty ball/claw leg in each corner. Normally I build these boxes, whose sides are made from 8/4 that I profile into a lipped S-shape using a simple miter joint in each corner reinforced with several heavy duty keys (see http://members.aol.com/kallen4465 for examples of a similarly designed humidor). In this version of the box I plan to butt the sides into the legs similar to a typical table design. See the attached photo for the prototype early in the “let’s see if this works” phase.
My initial concern with the design was wood movement. The legs will have vertical grain while the sides will be horizontal. I thought I would use a combination of dowels and pocket screws (no glue) to firmly hold the box together allowing for seasonal movement where these fairly thick pieces of wood join. Then I had one of those Homer Simpson moments (Doh!)… My normal procedure is to build these boxes six-sided and then slice the lid off. How can I secure the sides to the legs (pocket screws will be on the inside) when there will be no way to access the inside of the box once assembled!
Several solutions come to mind:
1) Secure 3 sides to 4 legs with pocket screws, slide the top and bottom in, clamp assembly together and then slice lid off. Secure last side once lid removed.
2) Go ahead and use glue.
3) Build the box and the lid as separate components (not my preference).
Any suggestions?
Kurt
Ps: Sgian – I am curious if the Homer Simpson comment translated appropriately on your side of the pond?
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Need help on compound miters:
I've figured out how to do crownmoulding on a power miterbox. But I'm wanting to use crown for picture frames that would have a gentler, say 30 degree compound mitre any suggestions?
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