Jig for angled brindle joint?
clemfred | Posted in Jigs, Fixtures, Tips & Tricks on
I’m thinking about making version of the Nakashima Conoid chair, a 2 legged chair with a cantilevered seat. The legs insert at a 12 degree angle off vertical into the feet via an angled brindle joint. I’m trying to devise a jig to easily and flawlessly cut both sides of the brindle joint exactly co-planar. This is easy with a 90 degree joint. With a 12 degree angle, you can’t simply flip the piece over.
I could always carefully lay out the lines and creep up with the dado blade to the line, but I like jigs. Any ideas? Thanks-
Replies
I suppose you are going to use a router with a guide bushing, No?
I would cut two templates just like you would for square, then attach the spacer 12º to the edges of the cut of one side. I would then insert a board that fits the space perfectly in the first one to guide the attachment of the second.
If you want to make it really precise, you may want to make the spacer a bit thicker than the foot piece by placing two layers of plastic laminate of something in there after you have the above done, you can glue one to the inside of each face, so when you run the router, as the bushing rides the template, the router bit will cut and show the exact edge that it will be cutting.
If I understand what you are asking, I would cut this exactly the same way I cut a 90° joint -- with a two-blade setup and a tenoning jig.
Use the two outside blades from a dado set, add spacers to bring them to the correct width apart, clamp the piece in the jig and run it through. Cut the shoulders on the RAS, by hand, or on the TS with the miter guage. Set up the dado without spacers for the slot.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Are you referring to the tenon's shoulder? What I do is cut the miter on the end and then set the table saw's fence the proper distance away from the blade. Then set the mitered end against the fence and adjust the miter gauge to the angle of the workpiece. Then run it through on one side and repeat the process (starting with miter gauge setting) on the other side.
For the open mortise, I cut the miter first, then set my table saw blade to the proper height and run the material through the blade on end with the mitered end flush on the table.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
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