Replies

1. 
   WayneL5 | Apr 11, 2004 04:53pm | #1

   Have you tried brad point bits?  They should work better than twist drill bits, that is, they shouldn't chip.  With 1500 holes you may need more than one bit.

   I don't know of a supplier for a jig.

2. 
   RonInOttawa | Apr 11, 2004 05:10pm | #2

   Have you looked at the Veritas jig from Lee Valley? It will handle 5mm holes, as well as 7mm and 9mm.

   Regards,

   Ron

3. 
   richk1 | Apr 11, 2004 06:02pm | #3

   I once had to make shelf pin holes similar, only 1/4" instead.  Maybe you could adapt the method.

   I took a piece of 1x6 pine and drilled 1/2" holes down the center at the spacing I needed for the shelf pins.  I then ripped the pine down the center of the holes.  I then clamped each half of this 'jig' to the cabinet side. I used a plunge router with a 1" OD guide to make the pin holes.  The 1" guide makes contact at 2 edges of the 1/2" holes, which is much faster than trying to insert a 1/2" guide into a 1/2" hole.

   This method worked well for my project and was quick and accurate. Don't know if they even make 5mm router bits or if I explained it well enough.

   Rich Knab
   People of mediocre ability sometimes achieve outstanding success because they don't know when to quit.

4. 
   art | Apr 11, 2004 06:21pm | #4

   I drilled a line of appropiately spaced 5/8 holes in a strip of 1/2 in plywood with a registration block glued on one end. I then clamp this to the workpiece and use either a 1/4 in or 5 mm spiral bit in my plunge router with a 5/8 template guide. It really goes pretty fast.  Art

5. 
   blockhead | Apr 11, 2004 06:52pm | #5

   I bought the shelf pin jig from MEG Products , the one advertised in Fine Woodworking, easy setup, accurite and expensive. Check out their ad and website. Built to last.

1. 
   breyton | Jan 04, 2005 10:54pm | #15

   I am thinking of getting the MEG shelf pin jig. I will not be building 32mm cabinets and was thinking of getting the 1" traditional spacing. Any opionion of the 32mm vs. the 1" spacing.

1. 
   mudman | Jan 05, 2005 02:40am | #16

   I use the 32 mm jig because it is compatible with a lot of euro accessories and the like. When using the jig for shelf pins it really dosent matter weather it is 1" or 32mm. remember that if the jig includes the bit to check weather the bit is metric or fractional.

   Mikeplease excuse my spelling.

2. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 05, 2005 03:10am | #17

   TH, cut some lenghts of pegboard with 1" centered holes.
   Screw it to the cabinet temporarially , using holes corrosponding to the new wanted holes. Then drill out most of the needed holes. Place pins through the peg board templates to hold the
   pegboard strips in position, Remove original screws and drill the remainder of the needed holes Steinmetz Instead of a regular twist drill, try using a 1/4' 'Centerdrill' It won't wander and chew up the template.
   center drills come in 1/8" up to 1/2" diameter
   Look for a machinsts tool suplier they are not expensive

6. 
   JohnWW | Apr 11, 2004 07:40pm | #6

   If you have a drill press, set it up with infeed and outfeed supports and use a fence and an indexing jig with the half holes described earlier.  Trying to drill that many holes free hand requires too much attention to keeping the drill exactly vertical.

   Attach the indexing jig to the edge of the verticals with double sided carpet tape.  The jig should have a tab on either end to catch over the ends of verticals for quick and accurate positioning.  The fence would have a projecting block for the index holes to register over as you slide the verticals along. 

   For that many holes, it is worth spending an hour or two, and buying a small drill press if you have to, to set this job up properly.  The precision and time saved later as you drill will more than make up for the set up time and tool investment. 

   For that many holes through melamine, use a carbide tipped brad point drill.

   John W. 

7. 
   PeterDurand | Apr 12, 2004 01:05am | #7

   I was in a similar situation a few years ago. I finally settled on a device from MEG products. http://megproducts.com/

   I really like it because you don't have to use a drill or drill press. It uses a router (I use a DeWalt 621 because of its great lightness and ease of plunge..and dust collection). So with a collet, you are assured or 90* holes, and they are very accurately spaced, on both sides of the shelf wall. Take a look at their web site and if I can answer any questions, let me know.

   Cheers,

   Peter

    

8. 
   lynnroy | Apr 12, 2004 01:22am | #8

   I just made a shelf pin jig based on plans I found on the inter-net. It is for a router. The plans are on "http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/4_23holejig.html". It took me about a day to make the jig. I reccomend the 3rd version. I tried version 1 and had to modify it. Just set assigd the time ad do it. I used a 1/4' 4" DRILL END that I obtained from Wholesale Tools a machine shop supplier in Tulsa. If you want help call me 918-248-8047. I am a man. Some people think I am a chick because of my sue like name.

   Lynn

9. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Apr 12, 2004 01:31am | #9

   Re: indexing jig, there was one in FWW157 - won the methods of work for the month

   Commercially available jig - yes - Hettich carry one, their part number 022870, approx price here (trade) is AUD200 = USD150.  1000mm long = 39.something inches.  Use the stub of a 5mm drill to index the jig as you run it up the edge of the panel

   http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/Festool/32mm/festool_32mmholes.html  Apparently festool make one also

   Cheers,

   eddie

10. 
    JMartinsky | Apr 12, 2004 01:31am | #10

    For a variety of reasons, I shot the lock off of my wallet and purchased a Delta "line bore" machine. I am not a Delta fan, but it fit the budget. Thirteen holes, cleanly cut, in a line, all day. With bits it runs about $1500.00. I was in your shoes and laying out 1500 holes, properly, even witha jig, in unrepairable melamine is daunting. I never could find one used, and it is a large investment, but a MAJOR time saver. Just my two cents.

    John

11. 
    bobJackson | Apr 12, 2004 04:58am | #11

    I bought the Woodhaven shelf pin jig a few years back and it has served me well. It is made of hard plasstic. It has holes for 1/4 & 5mm. You just put it on the workpiece ,clamp and drill with a vix bit. It comes with an alignment pin for when you need to do long rows of holes. Heres Woodhavens link.  Good luck  Bob

       http://woodhaven.com/

12. 
    CRAIGCONEY_M | Apr 12, 2004 07:50am | #12

    I have the festool router and 32mm hole system and it works great. I do tall casework with it and don't have a problem. It is easy to set up and is quick and accurate.  One of the guides I have is just under 8 feet long, the other about 42".  I do melamine, paint grade, and high end staingrade work. 

    I'm not sure what your budget is, but the router, vacuum, 32mm system, and long rail could set you back $1000 or more, but it is worth it.   It doesn't take up the floor space of a spindle boring machine, and you can use the guides for multiple operations and tools.  I highly recommend their vacuum for DC.    

    Craig.

    
    

    ---

    Edited 4/12/2004 1:21 am ET by craig

13. 
    Novy | Apr 12, 2004 09:17am | #13

    For 1500 holes i would get one of my friends (Production Shop)to bore them with a line boring machine...................

    On a hill by the harbour
14. 
    ASK | Apr 13, 2004 12:03am | #14

    Gcrow,

    I drilled a bunch of holes in 3/4" plywood this weekend. I used a piece of pegboard which had the holes spaced 1" OC. Glued the peg board to a thin piece of plywood as an edge to line up the holes in the right place. 1/4" bit. no problem. The only thing I noticed it that several of the holes I needed to go all the way through and I got some chipout on the back.

    ASK

15. 
    RickW | Jan 05, 2005 07:28am | #18

    I had to drill almost as many shelf standard holes as you in some oak bookcases a while back. I had the Rockler jig (with the "Insty-Bit") but I made my own template.
    I laid out the holes on a sheet of 1/8"Plexiglas,in my case with 2" spacing, and drilled them with a 3/8 bit for the guide bushing of the Insty-Bit on the drill press.I then clamped it to the side of the bookcase and drilled away.
    To help prevent chip-out,let the bit come up to full speed before you press it down.
    Hope this helps.
    Rick W.