Replies

1. 
   twilliams1223 | Jan 23, 2003 06:16pm | #1

   try a piece of peg board.

   Tom

1. 
   BertJ | Jan 23, 2003 07:33pm | #3

   Tom,

   The simplest jig I've seen (in a woodworking magazine--I can't take credit for it) is a very simple small piece of hardwood, say one inch thick, 2 inches wide and 4 inches long. Drill two holes spaced as you wish--let's say one-inch spacing. Make these holes line up parallel to the long side of the block. Insert a half-inch dowel through one of the holes and cut it so it bottoms out at the depth you desire--then glue it into the hole. You now have your jig.

   To use it, drill your first hole in the cabinet. Place the dowel in the hole and align the block with any straight edge clamped to the side. Drill the subsequent holes using the jig with an ordinary drill and a stop that gives you the depth you want. Then index the jig one hole at a time until you complete the row.

   Dirt cheap and couldn't be simpler.

   Bert

2. 
   chairmake1 | Jan 23, 2003 07:06pm | #2

   I took a 4" wide pc. of plywood and drilled 1/2" dia. holes

   2" on center thru the middle on the lenght of the sheet stock.

   I drilled into the center of the 3/4" edge a 9/32" hole on each

   end of the fixture so that a 1/4" rod or dowel will slide through-- I made this rod 8" long and attached a 3/4" x 2" x 6" pc of stock for an edge guide.

   Now to use this fixture I align the center line of the fixture with the run of holes to make and clamp it in place. Use a 1/4" upcut spiral bit with a 1/2" guide bushing on a plunge router and set the depth for 3/8" or whatever the depth of holes you wish - then route/plunge and move on to the next set needed. If you wanted holes on a 1" center you will have to index the fixture up 1" and repete the process.

   Mark all of the settings - bit, bushing - so forth on the fixture and drill a hang hole in the end and place it on the wall untill it's needed again. I put a coat of wax on mine.

   Mine is 60" long and have used it quite often in the last 6 years.

   You can also put a screw in the fence rod to hold the fence in place and all you have to do is set it once for the set back from the edge in the event that there are a lot of panels to drill.

   The sprial bit makes a clean entry and the buishing protects the fixture from getting cut up by the bit and the large bushing hole gives the debris some place to pile up.

   Hope this helps.

   Robert

1. 
   clampman2 | Jan 24, 2003 09:04am | #4

   Robert,

   Great idea. I'll be making one within a week.

   Clampman

3. 
   JOSEPH2238 | Jan 24, 2003 04:16pm | #5

   JCUTRER,

   I took a piece of 3/4 mdf 4" wide and 12" long and screwed a piece of 1"x1"x12" of mdf to one edge.  Using the 1"x1" as a guide I laid a 1 1/2 wide ruler against it and scribed a line then marked the spacing for the pins on the line. You may have the trim the end of the 12" end so that the last center line is at the end of it.  I then selected a 8d common nail that had the point centered on the shank.  I then drilled the holes in the mdf to the dia. of the nail.  Line the fixture up to the end of you piece and inset the nail in the last hole and center punch the first hole.  Slide the fixture up the board until the mark you just made is lined up with the end of the fixture and mark all of the holes, repeat as needed.  Now you have straight, evenly spaced marks ready to be drilled.  I like this method versus drilling thru the fixture because the drilling will wear the fixture out.

   Joe Phillips

   Plastics pay the bills, Woodworking keeps me sane!

4. 
   KevinLBS | Jan 24, 2003 06:02pm | #6

   Holy Moly.

   I drew a line and used my drill press. I was careful and they came out perfect. Maybe someday if I'm doing a ton of cabinets I'll make a few different jigs with different spacings, etc., but if you're just doing a weekend project USE A DRILL. I bet even a hand drill would work, huh?

   Kevin