Hello,
I just recived my first johnson paste wax in the mail.
I found that there was a strong odor the moment I took the wax out of the bouble mailer package, but without opening the Jonson paste wax lid. Is it normal for this stuff to have a lingering smell even when the tub is not open? There was a big dent to the bottom of the tub. I had noticed that under the lip of the lid that there was some waxy material that must have leaked out (see picutre 3, though ut is difficult to see). Is this normal? or should this tub definately be sent back to the merchant who sold it to me (online).
-g
Replies
It looks like the dent created a split in the container bottom. I'd contact the vendor about a replacement.
Even a small tub of wax tends to last a long time, so you'd be stuck with wax leaking from the bottom for a long time.
Or, you could re-seal the bottom with a patch of plastic tape.
I don't think it would be considered normal but the dent in the bottom explains why you smelled the odor. When It got dented it probably forced the mineral spirits used to soften the wax under the lid and it leaked the odor. When the wax is applied the mineral spirits dissolves and leaves only the wax which hardens. As long as the wax in the can is not hardened I would not give it a second thought. I purchase Liberon Wax from Toolls for Working Wood in New York City and when they ship it they put the can in a plastic zip lock bag just in case of such an oocurance.. Also.. the Liveron has a tiny intentional hole in the lid for vapor to leak off.
BTW.. you can get Johnson Paste Wax at any Lowes in the section with floor waxes and cleaning products. You may live in Yellow-knife Canada and not have a Lowes but.. if you do have one close you can inspect the can before you purchase for dents.. etc.
EDIT.. I just read the other post where he thinks he sees a split in the can. If so... you could ask for a replacement but... I would just put a piece of duct tape over the split and put the can in a large zip lock bag as I mentioned. But.. I assume you would have seen a split so I am still guessing my original thoughts. Just check the can bottom closely as you should see if there is a split.
Regards...
G,
That Johnnie wax is not good for furniture. if it is the stuff that has silicon in it. The silicon will eventually cause a white bloom to appear, which you will not be able to remove without taking the item right back to the wood. May I suggest the fine Black Bison wax from Liberon, which comes in many shades not just black; and has no bison in it at all (or buffalo). It is the traditional furniture wax-mix of bee, carnuba and turps.
I did once read in Knots about a museum wax, specially formulated for elder pieces. Various makers of fakes (I mean reproductions) waxed lyrical about it...... However, it was expensive and I can't recall it's name.
Lataxe.
Renaissance Wax, perhaps?
The MSDS for Johnson's Paste Wax lists the components to be Stoddard solvent, Paraffin waxes and Hydrocarbon waxes, and 1,2,4-Trimethylbenzene. No apparent silicon.
I've always heard that JPW was mostly carnuba wax, but can't say with certainty.
Ralph,
That Johnnie wax is perhaps different from the stuff that we get over here by the same name. Nevertheless your goo seems to be made of savage chems, compared to those gentle juices of the bee that the traditional furniture wax employs.
As to Carnuba, I'm informed that it's rock'ard and is therefore mixed in only small amounts with the beeswax as otherwise it would be reet difficult to apply and polish-off to a thin coating. On the other hand, the various wax-sellers tell us that a bit of carnuba in the beeswax provides some sort of tougher finish. Hmmmmm.
Lataxe
over 60 years experience with Johnson's Paste wax
David,
YOu asked about Johnson's Paste Wax. I learned of this stuff when I was a mere kid. My maternal grandparents used to use it on all of their furniture, twice a year. My mother took a lesson from her parents, and used the stuff on her furniture twice a year during her adult life. I used to "help" with the waxing when I was a wee tyke.
I now own a number of pieces of my grandparent's furniture that was Johnson Paste waxed twice a year, from about 1910 to about 1960. I havent waxed it since the furniture was given to me. I see no reason to wax furniture that is finished in lacquer or varnish.
You are invited to come and visit. Stay at my house for a few days. Sleep in a bed that was Johnson waxed for a half a century. Eat off a table that had that treatment. Look at the sideboard next to the table. The stuff is beautiful. I don't think the waxing did any harm. It did a lot of good. Just think of all the exercise my grandparents and parents got in doing all of that waxing. Exercise is good.
I still use Johnson's paste wax all the time, just not on furniture. I use it on my tools. It keeps the tools in great shape.
Hope that helps. It is good not to get too worked up about things like johnson's Paste Wax. There are important things to get worked up over.
Have fun. Hope that helped.
Mel
Silicone ??
Johnson wax does not contain silicone.
renaisannce wax is really expensive. I was considering purchasing it before I chose Johnson's
S C Johnson Paste Wax contains no silicone... as most waxes (including car wax) it is a combination of various waxes including carnuba and solvent) but... the car waxes most definitely do have silicone. I started using it in 1972 for both cast iron surfaces and furniture and trust me.. it won't hurt the wood nor rub off a machine surface onto raw wood and affect a finish with fish-eye. Just be sure it is the yellow can with the red racing strip on it as I really don't know what the Johnson's sold oversea's is?
With that said... I starting using the LIberon Black Bison about 4 years ago and love it. And you are absolutely correct about the price of Renaissance Wax Gramps.. it's really expensive and you only get a 7 oz. can. Iit retails for around $27 but usually you can pick it up for around $21 on Amazon. Woodcraft has a sale at the moment for $19.99 which means $20 in reality. ha.. ha....
I do keep a can on hand and use it to wax cast iron these days and here's why. I am in the shop daily and use my machines as the wax will wear off from friction when stock moves across them. Down south where it is humid I generally apply a new coat of wax about every two weeks with Johnsons. I tried the Renaissance and can get away with it for about 3 weeks. So the micro-crystalline or whatever will hold up a tad longer.
And one can will go a long way on machine tops. Too costly IMO for furniture surfaces as I work with large carcasses generally. You apply very thinly and get it off as soon as you apply. DO NOT let it haze using Renaissance as you will work your butt off getting if off if you do. If you want a really tough finish you could use almost pure carnubu even though I don't think anyone makes it anymore. I got a can of slightly cut Carnubu in 1978 and applied it to a full size van one Sunday here in Atlanta when it was 95 degrees outside. After spending an hour trying to get if off just one door..
I traded the van in on a jeep the next day as I worked at an Auto Dealer with the wax still on it. The guys down in the detail shop had to take the pure carnuba off with rotary buffing machines whiich can burn through paint if you don't know what you are doing. That was the last time I used the pure Carnuba and I think the company that produced it dis-continued making it. ha.. ha...
Johnson's wax
It's up to you whether you us it on the finish of furniture or not. As indicated in some of the replys, some like it - some don't. I personally don't care for it because it leaves a residue which is hard to remove evenly, especially in corners. And, it can attract dust.
However, it's great for putting on drawer runners, on wood screws to make them easier to turn, on your jointer bed - it even can polish your boots! It's great stuff and last a long time.
Dan
Found this thread late
I'll add to the safety of Johnson's Wax for furniture. My family has a late 19th century oak sewing cabinet. After refurbishing what was a pretty badly beat up cabinet, I put Johnson's on the top of the cabinet 20+ years ago. It looks like the day it was put on, clear, hard, and smooth as glass. I like it for the kind of top it's on, as it produces a hard, protective finish that repels water nicely. As one poster noted, it's hard to remove the excess when applied. Perfect. That was just the effect I wanted.
FL Wright and loyalty to Johnson Wax
20 miles to the east of Waterloo Iowa is a wonderful FL Wright house called Cedar Rock. It is one of a dozen or so of his buildings Wright was so pleased with that he signed with his red tile square. Among it's charms are suspended interior wall partitions made of two layers of walnut boards separated by projecting horizontal batons. They are beautiful, but someone in our group looking at all the projecting bands asked how the owners cleaned and took care of them. We were told that Wright left explicit instructions which of course concluded with a monthly application of Johnson Wax.
The house was given with a trust for its upkeep to the state of Iowa. It is a treasure and worth a visit if you find yourself in that area. The picture is of the master bedroom. When the misses asked why twin beds, Frank was said to have responded, you'll sleep better.
Peter
It is interesting, and perhaps not a coincidence, that Frank Lloyd Wright designed the S C Johnson company headquarters building in Racine Wisconsin. Despite challenges in such things as getting the roof not to leak, it is a well regarded building and still in use today by the company.
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