Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Apr 19, 2006 06:15pm | #1

   dummy,

   You need more self esteem!

   I'm not familiar with the book you referenced, but have built numerous Chippendale style chairs.  Not sure what the problem is from your description, but will take a stab at it anyway.

   Is the problem with angling the side of the square section of the leg?  Normally, I leave this area square until after assembly, then flush up the top portion (the square) to mate with the side rail.  The knee of the leg can be carved down similarly, so it is flush with the kneeblock,after the kneeblock has been attached.  Below the knee, the leg gradually transitions to square (as it was sawn, and worked out).  I've played with trying to saw out the top part of the legs at the seat flare angle, but to me, it seems more trouble than it is worth, having to keep track of lefts and rights, and the difficulty of holding the leg by its non square top while working them out.

   Hope this helps,

   Ray Pine

1. 
   dummy | Apr 20, 2006 07:06am | #3

   Had a hard time articulating my question, but you nailed it. I've had this book for about 5 years and before I waste a good piece of wood I want to work the bugs out. The carving I can handle, but there were several unanswered questions, and I think I'm ready. Really appreciate the input.

2. 
   Floss | Apr 19, 2006 07:43pm | #2

   dummy,

   The only part that is angled is the top of the leg. The square portion and the knee as far down as the transition(knee) blocks go, generally to the apex of the knee. The rest will be sawn out flat on the table as a regular cabriole leg. The reason for sawing the top is just to speed up the shaping process. It is not absolutely necessary but will help save time. The top is then planed flush after the chair is glue up. Also if you angle the transition block where it glues to the leg it will help speed up the process as well.

   I make a ramp that corresponds to the tenon angle and use double sided tape to adhere it to the leg. Then I cut out the mortises and saw out the top, remove the ramp and finish sawing the leg. Pretty much as Ray said to finish off.

   Are you putting stretchers on the chair?

   J.P.

   http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com
1. 
   dummy | Apr 20, 2006 07:16am | #4

   Thanks for the help. No stretchers, probably just as well as I think I'll have my hands full. I've held off doing this for some time, trying to build my skill levels up. Sure appreciate the tips.