I’m working on a set of plans for this small writing table and trying to determine how the vertical divider between the two top drawers would be fastened. I’m thinking a blind sliding dovetail coming in from the backside of the bottom horizontal divider ?
There is no top rail. The drawers are located directly under the table top. Would the top of the vertical divider have been tenoned into the underside of the table top? I would think it is joined at the top by some means.
Replies
The sliding dovetail will work, especially if the horizontal divider is not a solid board and is changing grain direction...like an internal dust frame. From the pic the vertical divider does not look to be important to the structure. If it is solid short grain (same direction as the top) a stopped rabbet or even a couple of dowels will keep it in place. How is the top fastened?
I think a sliding dovetail would be fine at the bottom of the divider. For the top, an unglued tenon into a slightly wider (front to back) mortise would be good or dowels. I'd be inclined to anchor the table top so it expands to the rear with seasonal changes. Fix it in line with the front legs and that divider and let the back move so it doesn't disturb the divider.
Thanks for the replies. The top is fastened by screws through the top drawer rails and no, the vertical divider is not important to the structure.
This is an 18th century piece (the one in the picture is a copy) so I doubt that there were any dowels involved, but the stopped rabbet and oversized mortise are both good. I had another suggestion that because this piece is so short (1-1/4") that it probably wasn't attached to the top at all.
Oh well, I have time to ponder this, it's too cold in the shop right now.
-Chuck
"I had another suggestion that because this piece is so short (1-1/4") that it probably wasn't attached to the top at all."
This was my immediate thought. I will sometimes use maple or even a bit of plywood for structural reinforcement but, on a piece like this, I would avoid that.
If the little voice in my head said a sliding DT on the bottom was not all that was needed I might use a stopped tenon in a elongated mortise at the top or a spline.
For your divider, a narrow chisel could make a groove in the top of the divider and a dado in the underside of the top. These would act as the receivers for a floating spline that would control any side-to-side movement while allowing for seasonal changes.
I have found splines to be good helpers for finicky or delicate joinery situations. The second pic has a dab of mineral spirits on the corner to help show the assembly.
In studying your photo, it appears to me that the two pieces with the divider you are asking about might be pull-out writing surfaces. Have you removed those along with the drawer below to study the joinery? Is it necessary that you follow the design exactly?
I would expect to find that the horizontal stretcher above the large drawer has a duplicate piece across the back. I would also expect to find similar stretchers front to back down each side going leg to leg and a third stretcher down the middle under the divider you are asking about. These front to back stretchers form the runners for the pull-outs to slide on. If the original (copy) is not built that way, that is the way I would do the new one. The divider could then be simply edge glued and screwed from below through the center front to back stretcher. You could also do the sliding dovetail, as suggested, if you wish. The vertical dimension of the divider is not great enough to require any fastening from the top.
If making a exact copy is not required, I would include a similar frame at the top of the pull-outs. The edges of this frame would serve as a "kicker" for the pull-outs and also provide some surfaces to screw through for fastening the top.
They'd be very small for writing surfaces. But small tables of that era frequently had small pull out candle holders of about this size.
I should give you the backstory to this table. On a recent trip to Colonial Williamsburg I had booked a room at the Red Brick Tavern, but when I arrived I was informed that I had been upgraded to one of the original Williamsburg houses (They obviously had me confused with someone important). It was there that I discovered this table and was able to take dimensions, etc. I later discovered that the original is in the Wbg Museum an though I didn't see it in the museum I was able to find it on the e-museum.
This is what they say about the two top drawers: "With a depth of less than one inch and interior dimensions of 8 5/8 inches by 11 1/8 inches, the small drawers are the right size for storing demy sheets of paper that have been cut into quarters for writing."
They say this about the construction: "Four supports for the smaller drawers are tenoned in the front and rear. The drawers are dovetailed."
It goes on to say that everything is mortised and pinned but makes no mention of that little divider.
Outward I will try to stay as original as possible. Inward construction will deviate slightly. Four individual supports is not how I would do this. I would do it like Mr Bilyo suggests except there would be no horizontal stretcher across the back. The drawer rails would be mortised into the rear skirt like they did with dressing tables and the bottom portion of highboys. but I also agree that there probably was no joinery at the top of the vertical divider.
Here's a link to the emuseum if your interested.
https://emuseum.history.org/objects/33085/writing-table?ctx=64ac856c61091dfc6045635ca37cd07a2ed34c2f&idx=209
Thanks for all the replies.
-Chuck
The emuseum description says that there is a "straight skirt on all sides". I assume that means left, right, and back. Under "Construction" it says that the 4 supports for the small drawers are tenoned front and rear. I assume that means that it is mortised into the front rail and mortised into the rear skirt or a rail inside the skirt. Either way should work.
For the middle divider, I would make it as an upside down "T" mortised front and rear as the side supports are. For strength, the leg of the "T" should be glued into a dado in the bottom cross piece. This would provide both drawer supports and divider in one. The divider should not need to be fastened at the top.
Just a suggestion. Maybe you could contact the emuseum and let them know you are going to make a copy. Perhaps they would be willing to supply you with some additional pictures all around and inside.
To repeat myself. I think a top frame to support and fasten the top would be an improvement. However, if you want to be true and authentic, that is not an option.
Interesting piece. Good luck.
Bilyo
As you described is pretty much what I have settled on. It would be interesting to see if the museum would take the time to help me out especially after the holidays when it probably gets slow down there. I do have pictures of several other potential projects from the museum.
There is another part to this story. The day I was leaving for home was a cold and rainy morning but I decided to visit a couple more places before I had to check out. Naturally I walked back into the Hay Cabinet shop. Ed Wright (the harpsichord builder) was the only one in the shop and what was sitting on top of one of the benches but a copy of this table. The apprentice had recently completed it and Ed was kind enough to let me get up and close and answered several questions I had about the detailing on the legs and case. Obviously I never thought to ask about this little divider.
Then just last night I was poking around on the Williamsburg site and I discovered how to create the email address of the craftsmen there. As long as you know the person's first and last name. They even invited you to contact the craftsmen with questions. So I may have a link to people with first hand knowledge of this table. Heh, heh
Of course I could always make another trip to CW. That's never a bad idea.
Chuck,
Wonderful! It looks like a really fun project and it appears you have a connection to all the information you need. I hope you will post some photos as your progress and when completed.
Good luck
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