Replies

1. 
   notDusty | May 12, 2006 05:33pm | #1

   Hi dimitri ,

                    I use a full length spline made out of 1/4" real plywood not solid stock . This acts like a T & G joint and provides alignment for the entire length while increasing the glue surface .

             good  luck          dusty

1. 
   dimitri | May 12, 2006 05:59pm | #2

   Sounds good to me! Is there an advantage using the 1/4" plywood stock as opposed to solid stock?

   Dimitri

1. 
   highfigh | May 12, 2006 06:51pm | #3

   The percentage plywood expands is different from solid wood. Since you're gluing plywood, you want the material to be as homogeneous as possible and plywood spline allows that. Also, plywood resists bending in all directions and some solid woods could fracture along the spline."I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

   Edited 5/12/2006 11:52 am by highfigh

2. 
   notDusty | May 12, 2006 08:20pm | #4

   dimitri ,

                  You can run solid stock for splines , but for strength the grain should run across the joint as opposed to running  length wise . It is much easier to crack or break wood with the grain than against the grain .

                  dusty

1. 
   dimitri | May 12, 2006 09:46pm | #5

   thanks very much for your help!

   Dimitri

2. 
   dimitri | May 17, 2006 04:31pm | #6

   What is the best way to make the groove to accept the spline on this plywood? Keep in mind that it is a fireplace mantel piece 4 feet long by 2 feet in height! I can not run it thru the table saw or a router table. I would have to use a handheld router to make the groove but how do I do that on 45degree mitered corners? Also,how do I miter the 45degrees?

   thanks,

   Dimitri

1. 
   notDusty | May 17, 2006 05:21pm | #7

    Hi Dimitri ,

                  I would run it thru the TS and if needed make an auxiliary taller fence to help stabilize the work piece . You run the piece on edge .

   Typically what I do is when I cut my 45 degree cut I then leave the blade set at the angle and move the fence and lower the blade to center the spline cut to the correct area . An 1/8" kerf is fine for 3/4" materials .

     If for some reason you don't feel comfortable using the TS and want to use an 1/8" spline cutter in a router you can place two mitered pieces face to face or point to point and use the angle from one to give the base of the router support and then repeat for the other .

    The TS is much more effort effortless and the cut you make is only a 1/4" deep or so , try a scrap piece first to get the feel and then if you feel safe run the work pieces thru .

                 good  luck                  dusty

1. 
   dimitri | May 17, 2006 06:13pm | #8

   Thanks! I think using the hand held router will make this much easier since the fireplace mantel piece is big to be managed by myself at the TS.

   Dimitri

1. 
   JLMCDANIEL | May 19, 2006 12:12am | #9

   I would be very carefull a router can do a lot of damage whitout proper suport.

   Have you thought about useing biscuits instead of a spline, it may work a little easier and beter in this circumstance.

   jack

2. 
   dimitri | May 19, 2006 03:00pm | #12

   I like the idea better with the biscuits! I agree with you that it would be very tough making a spline groove on a 45degree angle. I also happen to have a biscuit joiner and have used it several times in the past. A much better technique for this project.

   thanks,

   Dimitri

2. 
   RonRocheleau | May 19, 2006 07:45pm | #14

   Maybe I am not understanding what you're trying to do but I don't see why cutting the slot on a 45 mitered edge on a TS would be difficult.  Tilt the blade to 45, set the fence, and run the plywood flat on the TS.  No need for a tall fence and I certainly wouldn't use a router for this.  May need to reset the fence and take two cuts if the slot is wider than the blade. 

1. 
   JLMCDANIEL | May 20, 2006 01:20am | #15

   Ron,

   He stated several times that the piece was to big for him to handle on a table saw.

   Jack

2. 
   Lataxe | May 19, 2006 01:53am | #10

   Dimitri,

   Whilst a spline offers most strength, you would need to mill the grrove and the spline very accurately to achieve a good, strong joint.  You may or may not have the tools and skill to do this. 

   In my experience, its all too easy to make a sloppy or variable fit with a spline.  Personally I am not well co-ordinated enough to make  perfect joints by myself and rely on expertise with machine tools rather than my less-than-perfect hand-eye connection.  Of course, you may be better co-ordinated than me, an imperfect specimen of the genus woodworker.

   For these reasons of cack-handedness, I have often used biscuits to joint  pieces that need to meet at angles other than 90 or 180 degrees.  The biscuit joiner makes perfectly shaped and aligned holes at a precise angle.  The biscuits fit in the holes very tightly.  The whole process is a lot easier than my spline-making efforts that used router, table saw and even the pathetic weilding of a hand-saw.

   Those Swiss know a thing or two about precision and 'twas they that invented biscuit joiners.....

   Lataxe

3. 
   jigjigw | May 19, 2006 02:41am | #11

   Kreg pocket hole system does a very good strong joint.

   Instructions come in their manual and CD

   If interested I will find this for you.

   You can do it with out their system. It just more difficult.

   J_

1. 
   dimitri | May 19, 2006 03:08pm | #13

   I have the Kreg pocket sysytem also. However, I love the idea of using biscuits. God bless all of you who responded and shared your ideas.

   thanks again,

   Dimitri

4. 
   mufti | May 20, 2006 09:00pm | #16

                This is where the Elu DS140 biscuit joiner is king-now De Walt. With the scribing blade you can groove, rebate, cut square holes, dado but not make coffee. It is safe, accurate because you can position the blade, and adaptable. Away from home , clamp it on its side and cut stub tenons. (Also cut slots for biscuits).

    

5. 
   SantaBarbaraSawDust | Jun 02, 2006 08:03am | #17

   Get a 22.5 degree lock miter bit and run both boards through the router table,  that will be the easiest way to get a perfect 45 with good glue surface, and it won't slip during clamping.

   Terry
   Santa Barbara,CA
1. 
   notDusty | Jun 02, 2006 05:06pm | #18

   Hi Terry ,

          When you take 2 pieces cut at 22 1/2 degrees you do not get a 45 degree corner , you do not get a square corner, was that a typo just wanted to make sure that I have not been missing a different method , thanks .

                                       regards   dusty

1. 
   SantaBarbaraSawDust | Jun 02, 2006 08:21pm | #19

   Last I checked, 22.5 + 22.5 = 45To get a square corner, you would use two 45 degree mitered edges to get 90 degrees, 45 + 45 = 90It wasn't a typo, but I could have misunderstood what was being asked. I read the questing as to wanting to join two pieces of wood with the final result being a 45 degree joint, hence the 22.5 + 22.5 = 45. If the final result is wanting a 90 degree joint, then use a 45 degree miter locking bit instead. Regardless, using a locking miter bit to make the joint is a very good option to consider as it's easy, clean and almost fool proof.

   Terry
   Santa Barbara,CA

   Edited 6/2/2006 1:32 pm ET by SantaBarbaraSawDust