Replies

1. 
   NickC | Oct 24, 2002 09:13pm | #1

   Couple of ways:

   1) Double mortise & tenon--Cut a small tenon near the top and bottom of the side rail. How small? Assume you have a 5 inch side rail, 3/4 inch thick. I'd try 3/4 x 1, with a 1/4 inch shoulder.  Maybe 1-1/8 long. Now you should have 2-1/2  inches between tenons. Cut matching mortises in the leg of the headboard, just a little deeper than the 1-1/8. From the other side of the leg bore a hole right through the leg and into the center of the rail for a lag bolt. You should countersink the bolt head, of course, and you can get cute little round brass plates to hide the countersunk bolt head. The bolt draws the rail in tight. The tenons keep the joint from twisting, and add shear strength. You don't need to glue them in. I've seen large dowels used instead, but they can break.

   2) The easy way--Use bed rail hanger hardware. Big hooks go on the rail. Matching holes on the headboard leg,

   Either way, you should not have a problem with seasonal movement. Which is more than I can say for the panel. You didn't say whether the headboard has rails connecting the legs (stiles), forming a frame into which you could float the panel. That would give you a strong headboard. Nick

1. 
   BigA58 | Oct 24, 2002 09:32pm | #2

   Actually, my question was about connecting a 30' wide glued-up horizontal panel to vertical legs. The legs would be kind of like breadboard ends on a tabletop. But it needs to have structural strength. I'll attach a jpeg of the bed I saw.

1. 
   NickC | Oct 24, 2002 09:50pm | #3

   If that panel is solid, it can't offer you structural strength because you can't glue it to the legs, except maybe a little to keep it frm sliding around. Somehow, the panel has to float. And I think you want to fix the panel at the top of the legs, so that when movement does occur the top edge of the panel will still be in line with the top of the legs. Your jpeg (very helpful) doesn't show a top rail, but would you consider using a bottom rail. You wouldn't see it--it would be behind the mattress. Maybe the same width as the side rails. Then you could T&G the panel into the legs, pinning (or gluing) it at the top to keep the legs in tight. Best I can come up with without using the nasty V-word. Nick

1. 
   BigA58 | Oct 24, 2002 10:04pm | #4

   I think that's probably a good option. I originally thought the panel might not be continuous to the bottom rail position, but the manufacturer told me it was. I was thinking about a design where the panel stopped quite a bit shorter, but it felt like I was cheating. Maybe I use a good stong tenon at the top and an unglued spline for the majority of the length. Then use a bottom rail as you suggested.